Santa Fe Trail

Santa Fe: Getting to Know The City Different

~ adriennecohen221 ~ 1 Comment

It has been more than a decade since I lived in Santa Fe. But it’s a city one cannot easily forget. In many ways, it’s a city that I will always miss. I fell in love with Santa Fe the first time I visited, about 1975, and I still cherish the years that I lived and worked there.  

Long described by both residents and visitors as “The City Different,” Santa Fe was known by its earliest inhabitants as “The Dancing Ground of the Sun.” Those of us who arrived to become new residents when it was still a relatively small town were attracted by its culture, its lifestyle, the spectacular sunsets, and the people. We were mesmerized by the changing seasons, the landscape, the diversity, and by city’s traditions and timeless quality. We hoped it would remain so forever.

But change is inevitable, and Santa Fe’s growth and growing popularity prompted many changes, some of them good and some not so well received. Over a span of nearly 20 years, the population grew by more than 20,000, with new residents from every state and many other countries. No longer was it a quaint New Mexico town with a predominantly Hispanic and Native American population. It became much more cosmopolitan, and more complex.

Prices increased, of course, not only for housing, but for all goods and services. New businesses opened, and new philosophies of growth, development, and government were born. Tourism thrived, and Santa Fe became an increasingly popular destination. Some “old-timers” feared then that Santa Fe would lose its appeal and become “not so different” from other prominent tourist destinations around the world.

Change and Growth Are Not Always Negative

Recently, my husband and I revisited Santa Fe. Our time was limited, but we made the most of the opportunity to see old friends, neighbors and business associates. We found, happily, that Santa Fe’s charm has not been diminished. The opposite is true.

Surprises still exist seemingly around every corner. Some of our favorite restaurants and old “haunts” have disappeared, but many are still there. New ones have opened and become popular, adding a new dimension. Annual celebrations and the festivals that we loved so much are still on the calendar — Summer’s Wine and Chile Festival, the traditional Spanish and Indian Markets, and the annual burning of Zozobra. This year marked the 72nd year of Spanish Market in July, and more than 1,000 artists from 200 tribes were featured at the 102nd Indian Market, held mid-August. But now, there are festivals and markets year round. The Holiday Folk Art Market complements summer’s International Folk Art Market, and popular Artists Markets are held near the Railyard Saturdays from May through December.

We found a large and lively market with fresh vegetables and crafts, much to our delight, when we visited, and our friends touted the appeal of new galleries, Meow Wolf, local pubs and breweries, and additional public art installations.

Historic buildings, parks, galleries, and art dominate the Santa Fe scene. New streets and highways make it easier to get around — and to get lost. We thought it would be easy to revisit our favorite places. Time and memory seem to have altered our perceptions. We found it difficult at times to even navigate to the addresses we once called home.

Santa Fe still proclaims itself The City Different and it remains unlike most other vacation destinations. There is a special vibe that’s difficult to resist, with much to see, do and learn in and around Santa Fe. Three historic travel routes converge in the city. It’s the end of the 900-mile Santa Fe Trail that began in Missouri and traversed the Great Plains, allowing goods and settlers to move westward. The pre-1937 Route 66 ran through Santa Fe on its path from Chicago to California, and the 1,600 mile route linking Mexico City, Spain’s colonial capital at the time, to its northern outpost at Santa Fe, was designated as an historic trail — El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro — by the U.S. National Park Service in 2000.

The city resonates with history, art that is sometimes quirky, and charm, and you’ll find wonderful food and a distinctive cultural experience no matter what time of year you visit the city.

What to Do in and Around Santa Fe

Whether you go to Santa Fe for two days or two weeks, there’s plenty to keep you busy.

Visit museums and art galleries, weekend markets, downtown shops and the stunning open-air Opera House just outside of town. Savor local food specialties. Talk with shopkeepers, artists, bartenders and street vendors. Purchase art and jewelry from galleries or directly from artist studios. Talk with the artists and artisans who sell their creations from the portal at the Palace of the Governors. Attend a service at the Cathedral, or step inside the 400-year-old San Miguel Chapel, known as “the oldest church.” Visit the Georgia O’Keefe Museum. Explore Santa Fe’s distinctive neighborhoods.

Stroll the Plaza and Canyon Road. Be awed by the imposing Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi and the impressive and mysterious staircase at Loretto Chapel. Have a drink or a meal at the sprawling Hotel La Fonda, which is conveniently located at one corner of the city’s downtown Plaza. Embrace the weather, the sights, the history, Pueblo and Territorial architecture, the scents of pinon or roasting chiles in season. Bask in the natural beauty of the site and breathe fresh mountain air.

Take the “white knuckle” drive up the winding road to the Ski Basin. Nearby Chimayo, Los Alamos, La Cienega, Las Vegas (yes, New Mexico), and Madrid are worth a day trip. See ancient pueblo cliff dwellings at Bandelier National Monument or go fishing at Cochiti Lake or along the Rio Chama. Hike the Sangre de Cristo or Jemez Mountains in the summer. Ski or snowmobile on mountain trails in the winter.

Learn about Santa Fe’s history, and visit a nearby Pueblo, especially if there’s a celebration or special ceremony scheduled. Most welcome visitors, but be respectful of their customs and regulations. Schedule a spa treatment or soak under the stars in a hot tub at 10,000 Waves. Sample street food or pub fare. Enjoy it all. Santa Fe is unique in any season.

Next week I’ll write more about where to stay, where to “play” and where and what to eat while in The City Different. Follow me to receive timely email notifications about future posts.

Getting to Santa Fe

Despite its popularity as a tourist destination, getting to Santa Fe, and getting around the city once you’re there, can be problematic. Public transportation is, for all practical purposes, non-existent. Unless you stay in the heart of the city, you will want a car.

You can fly into Santa Fe; there are direct flights from Houston, Denver, Phoenix, and Dallas. If you fly into Albuquerque, you can rent a car there — it’s an easy drive to Santa Fe and will take little more than an hour. There’s a train that runs between the cities, and it’s an interesting ride, but it’s better as an excursion than as a comfortable, reliable way to arrive in the city for vacation.

Finally, most tourism guides will warn you that lodging and meals are expensive in Santa Fe. And they can be. But more modest accommodations are available, including B&B’s or private “casitas,” and it can be worth the effort to search them out. Also, be sure to ask for dining recommendations from shopkeepers or guides. Savor delightful breakfast places and long-established local favorites for distinctive dishes and ethnic specialties. Learn what “Christmas” means when asked how you want your burritos served.

Santa Fe Today

Santa Fe has become a cosmopolitan city with an estimated 2024 population of just under 90,000, but its soul is still “small town,” rooted in the traditions of its more than 400-year history. It was originally established in 1610 as the capital of Nuevo Mexico, a province of New Spain. That was 13 years before Plymouth Colony in Massachusetts was settled by pilgrims who arrived on the Mayflower. Its history, however, began long before that.

Santa Fe boasts not only the oldest public building in the United States, the Palace of the Governors, but also the oldest community festival, first celebrated in 1712 to commemorate the Spanish reconquest of New Mexico in 1692. This year’s Fiesta de Santa Fe is scheduled August 31 through September 11. The city was built on the ruins of an earlier Indian Pueblo, and it’s not only the earliest European settlement west of the Mississippi but also the oldest state capital in the United States.

Want information about things to do in Santa Fe? Here are some specific suggestions, whether your interests are primarily arts and culture, outdoor activities, foodie experiences, or shopping. You might also want to order a copy of the Official Visitors Guide to help plan your trip. And when you’re in town, stop by TOURISM Santa Fe, located downtown at 201 W. Marcy St., for the best up-to-date information about local special events and exhibitions.

Once Upon a Frontier

~ adriennecohen221 ~ Leave a comment

In December 2023, Old West Magazine published a list of the “The Top 10 True Western Towns of 2024,” as it has annually for nearly two decades.

Cody, Wyoming, topped the list this year, but others include:

  • Miles City, Montana
  • Lubbock, Texas
  • Abilene, Kansas
  • The Dalles, Oregon
  • San Angelo, Texas
  • Deadwood, South Dakota
  • Tombstone, Arizona
  • Fort Smith, Arkansas, and
  • Prescott, Arizona

Some of these Old West towns have made repeated appearances on the magazine’s annual list. I have lived in several of these legendary locations — Santa Fe, NM, Fort Worth, TX, and Miles City, Montana. And I have visited many more.

Many towns across America claim to be throwbacks to earlier times, dripping with the romance and spirit of discovery that characterized a new and uncharted land.

Most have become thoroughly integrated with modern life. The best, however, retain and celebrate their history as towns on the frontier of a fresh and growing America. Their residents may no longer subscribe to the lively lifestyles of the past, but they are also unwilling to completely put the past behind them. I find that refreshing.

The West Lives On

Last month, I visited an Arkansas frontier town, Fort Smith, for the first time.

Fort Smith has also made True West’s list more than once, and its past may be more colorful than most. The facts testify to its importance on the edge of the American frontier.

Situated on the banks of the Arkansas River and just a bridge away from Oklahoma, Fort Smith is a small town by any standard, but its history is long and varied. It was where “the Hanging Judge” of Old West renown held court — 83 men were hanged on the orders of Judge Isaac Parker between 1873-1896, and reconstructed gallows now occupy a prominent position at Fort Smith’s National Historic Site. Displays are housed in a former military barracks and the city’s impressive historical museum occupies a one-time Army commissary.

The city’s Visitors Center is currently in a former brothel, Miss Laura’s Social Club, and tours of the restored house are offered to the public on a regular schedule. A modern Visitors Center, however, is slated to open in 2025.

Despite its status as the third most populous city in Arkansas, with approximately 90,000 residents, Fort Smith retains its small-town appeal. Its boundaries encircle an area of about 63 square miles, but its downtown core consists of only a few easily walkable blocks.

The city played a contested role in the Civil War and fell under the control of both the Confederacy and the Union at different times. Today a National Cemetery is located near the center of Fort Smith’s historic downtown district. Walking among the headstones is an eye-opening lesson in American history.

Building a New History

Present-day Fort Smith also has much to recommend it, not the least of which is the United States Marshals Museum that opened July 1, 2023, after a decade of planning. It occupies a dramatic riverbank site only a mile or so from the city’s historic downtown.

If, like me, most of what you know about U.S. marshals has been gleaned from television and movies, visiting this museum is akin to a refresher course in reality. The modern building at first seems a bit incongruous on the river, sandwiched between a bridge that leads to Oklahoma and an RV campground. One wonders initially what this architecturally stunning building, set starkly between large boulders and clumps of prairie grass, can be. Closer to the bank, a horse and rider seem to stand watch.

Upon approach, however, the steel and glass building morphs into a stylized star – the badge of the U.S. Marshal. A single American flag directs visitors to the building’s entrance.

The museum tells the story of a small band of legendary men and women charged since 1789 with “keeping the peace and carrying out justice” in the United States. And it tells that story in an unparalleled way.

The Trail of Tears

Also in Fort Smith, there is a viewing platform on the river, not far from the city’s modern convention center, that marks the spot where the trail ended for native tribes who were forcibly removed from their lands east of the Mississippi. Although there were several routes to the designated “Indian Lands” in the West, the years-long relocation of thousands of indigenous tribal members is known as the “Trail of Tears.”

For some, that trail ended at Fort Smith. Indian Territory lay just across the Arkansas River, in what was to become Oklahoma. Last year, I stood near the bank of the Mississippi River not far from St. Louis, at a point where a marker now designates a beginning point of the Trail of Tears. Seeing both the beginning and end of that trail was a sobering experience.

My recent travels have opened my mind to the variety and wealth of Arkansas history, and to the reasons for its nickname as the Natural State. One need not travel far afield to learn more about this unique region.

The City That Holds My Heart

Old West towns beckon to me. To this day, each retains a kind of defiant swagger that sets it apart from other historic American cities, and each one has a distinctive mystique.

Some years of my early childhood were spent in Miles City, along with many summer vacations to visit grandparents. Miles City was then, and in some ways still remains a quintessential frontier town. Founded in 1877, the year after the Battle of the Little Big Horn, it was adjacent to Fort Keogh, at the confluence of the Powder and Yellowstone Rivers in eastern Montana. The fort’s reason for being was as a military outpost to urge local tribes — the Lakota and Crow — to resettle on the state’s designated reservations.

As an active military installation, the fort had a storied history up to and including World War II. Miles City in its early days supplied liquor and services for the troops. Allow your imagination free rein; Miles City began life as a rowdy town.

The fort was deactivated in 1924 to become an agricultural research station. Miles City was an early railroad hub, with both the Milwaukee Road and the Great Northern Railway running through the town. And, for decades, motorists on both U.S. Highways 10 and 12 passed through Miles City. But in the latter part of the 20th Century, Interstate 90 and its I94 spur from Billings to North Dakota were constructed. The interstate bypassed Miles City, and it fell into decline as passenger train travel also diminished. The city’s airport had insufficient runway to handle jets, and most reasons for visiting disappeared.

However, to this day, Miles City clings to the pride that perpetuates its rowdy past. Some of that raucous past manifests each spring, during the third full weekend of May, at the legendary Bucking Horse Festival, held since 1951. The weekend celebration is a spirited event that includes horse races, rodeo events, and visits to Miles City’s throwback saloons. It is grounded in the history of the military and westward expansion, and characterized by high spirits and daring antics by contemporary cowboys. It is still a primary source of rodeo stock for the entire country and the annual rodeo and sale is one of those American “folk festivals” that one really must experience in person to believe.

More West to Explore

In just a few days, I will embark on another journey that will take me through several Old West towns in Kansas on the way to a week of R&R at a mountain cabin in Estes Park, CO. 

Kansas is another state with a rich frontier history, and I look forward to exploring a bit more on this quick journey west, visiting Fort Scott, Wichita, and Dodge City along the way. On this road trip, my husband and I will drive a few miles along Route 66 in eastern Kansas, and then return to the past further west as we follow part of what was once the Santa Fe Trail. I wrote before about Kansas in 2022 when I visited several of the small towns in the southeastern corner of the state that we will pass through again on our way west.

On the way back to Arkansas, we plan to revisit Santa Fe, which we called home for nearly two decades, then will see friends in Lubbock and the Dallas/Fort Worth area before returning home. My plan is to return and write more about these legendary Old West towns that are now redefining themselves as unique places in the modern world.

I hope you’ll join me as I continue to travel and find interesting and unusual places to visit. I urge you to venture out on your own as you have time — to your state’s parks, historic sites, regional festivals and the many small towns, lakes, streams, mountains or shores that surround you, wherever you may live.