Santa Fe: What to Know Before You Go

Imbued with a long and multi-faceted history, Santa Fe is a fascinating city characterized by a cultural richness that few other places possess. It offers something of interest to every visitor, in every season. But it’s impossible to see it all in just a few days, and no matter how much time you spend in the city or how many times you return, there is always something new to discover. First-time visitors are typically eager to learn about Santa Fe, but can leave exhausted if they attempt to see, do and “feel” it all.

Don’t let that happen to you.

Instead, prepare for a trip to this 400-year-old city by doing some homework before you leave home. Know that, at an elevation of 7,000 feet, you are likely to tire more quickly than you might at home. Understand that Santa Fe has a delightful downtown square, and the city radiates in all directions from that plaza. In many ways, it’s a city to explore on foot, but distances can be deceiving. Embrace the art, the food, the museums, and the galleries, the restaurants and bars, and the natural beauty that surrounds you, but understand that Santa Fe is not a “bargain” destination. Learn about Santa Fe’s history, and appreciate the cultural differences. It’s that mix of old and new, of “everyday” and “one-of-a-kind” that casts a spell and makes Santa Fe unique.

Plan your trip and your activities wisely. Santa Fe is the capital of New Mexico, a state known for its diverse attractions, from mountains and winter sports to the sprawling desert landscape of White Sands, from ancient cliff dwellings and Native American Pueblos to Old West mining towns and the futuristic Very Large Array National Radio Astronomy Observatory. If possible, take the time to get out of Santa Fe and visit other parts of the state.

Chances are you’ll find something to love no matter what direction you go. Santa Fe is just “up the road” from Albuquerque, New Mexico’s largest city with a major airport. If you fly into Albuquerque, it’s best to rent a car there and drive north. One of your first stops should be at the Tourist Information Center in Santa Fe, near the state capitol. The knowledgeable staff can help you flesh out your plans for the time you’ll spend in “The City Different.”

Where to Stay

Downtown hotels, particularly those within walking distance of the Plaza, are typically expensive and frequently fully booked. If one of these highly desirable options is your choice, make your reservations well in advance. There are also numerous boutique hotels, B&Bs, nearby resort accommodations, chain motels, timeshares, private guest casitas and rental condos in and near Santa Fe.

Use your favorite booking site or ask for recommendations from friends who have recently visited the city. On my recent trip, I stayed two nights at a delightful motel in a location that was convenient for what I planned to do in the city. I was there primarily to visit old friends. I was not looking for luxury, but was pleasantly surprised by the price and the amenities. The included breakfast is worth a shout-out — featuring freshly-prepared plump burritos and a variety of muffins, cereal, juice and yogurt — as is the level of service. The decor at Coyote South is distinctive, fresh and modern, and the staff is friendly and knowledgeable.

You will also find noted resorts and wellness retreats, although some are located quite a distance from downtown Santa Fe. Visitors can book packages that include spa treatments, pools and hot tubs, luxury accommodations, and distinctive meals. Two of the most unique are Ten Thousand Waves and Ojo Santa Fe.

Wherever you choose to stay, I can recommend a visit to La Fonda on the Plaza, for a drink or a meal, or just to look around. One of the city’s oldest landmarks, it occupies the site of the city’s first inn, built in the early 1600s when the city became the northern outpost of Spanish colonization. In the 1800s, La Fonda provided hospitality for anyone traveling west on the Santa Fe Trail. The current structure dates to 1922, and many of its signature features — beams, tin chandeliers and skylights — are original.

The inn was acquired by the ATSF railroad in 1925 and leased to hotelier Fred Harvey, whose “Harvey Girls” provided travelers great food and service until the hotel was sold in 1968. Today, it continues to serve travelers, with 180 guest rooms, three dining options, luxury amenities and an onsite spa. It is also a popular event venue and business center, renowned because of its period architecture, its history, and its hospitality. Stop in for a drink or a meal, or take a complimentary history and art tour, and you’ll see why.

Ask for assistance from a hotel concierge or your B&B host to help you plan skiing, hiking or fishing excursions, and trips to surrounding pueblos and casinos. Locals are usually only too willing to share information and help visitors,

Where to Eat

Santa Fe is also a noted foodie destination, with almost limitless options for both casual fare and fine dining. Many of the city’s finest restaurants are small, and reservations are recommended. You may encounter lines at popular lunch spots, especially in summer, during the many festivals, or at the height of the ski season. Plan ahead and be patient.

Breakfast is a favorite meal and a long-standing tradition in Santa Fe. Pasqual’s, situated a block off the Plaza, is always crowded, especially for breakfast, but it’s open every day except Tuesday, and it’s worth a wait. When ordering breakfast burritos or any type of egg dish, you may be asked “red, green or Christmas?” The question is to determine your preference of chile toppings. Know that it’s no sin to ask which is hotter; if you’d like to sample the different tastes, ask for Christmas. You’ll get some of each.

Casual eateries serve a wide variety of tastes, offering food that is fresh, flavorful and fun. Stop to sample local specialties at out-of-the-way cafes with patio seating, or order New Mexican or Native American street food from a vendor during a Santa Fe festival. You won’t be disappointed, and people-watching is a popular pastime. Order take-out from The Burrito Company or the Plaza Cafe to eat on a bench at the Plaza, or spread a blanket on the grass near the river.

If you explore Santa Fe neighborhoods, don’t neglect shopping center eateries and local craft breweries. You’ll find reasonably priced food, prompt service, and friendly people. Joe’s, on the south side of town is one such place, and Santa Fe Brewing Co. has several locations in both Santa Fe and Albuquerque.

Need more suggestions about where to go? Here’s my short and very random list of personal favorites, but be open to exploring. Try someplace new and find your own favorites.

El Farol on Canyon Road is a classic Santa Fe hot spot located in an adobe building that dates to 1835. Open Wednesday through Sunday from 4 to 9 p.m., the parking situation can be difficult, and the decor is rustic rather than refined, but the live music and flamenco performances make it an experience rather than simply a meal. Daily Happy Hour drink and tapas specialties attract crowds. Dinner choices that include paella, mussels, beef, and salmon as well as New Mexico enchiladas and desserts are legendary. Vegetarian and vegan options are available.

Coyote Cafe at 132 W. Water St. has won awards since it first opened in 1987, and the acclaim continues to this day. Named 1st Place winner in the Best of Santa Fe competition for 2024, Celebrity Chef Mark Miller pioneered the use of strictly regional and native ingredients to develop menus that have stood the test of time. Coyote Cafe attracts an army of repeat visitors. The Rooftop Cantina is a lively casual gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. Order Mama Schutz’ Frito Pie as a nod to tradition. Santacafe, a sister venue, is located at 231 Washington Ave., and is noted equally for its elegant outdoor courtyard dining patio and its delicious food.

El Nido in Tesuque, another of my go-to choices, is especially soothing on a chilly fall afternoon or a cold, snowy winter evening. The heated garden portal is a wonderful gathering spot from spring into fall, but the interior is El Nido’s all-season haven, with the ambience of aged wood, original tin chandeliers and colorful wall murals. Meals are prepared at an open-fire grill center, so diners can watch the action. Order sake and sample starters from El Nido’s companion sushi bar “SU.” Then, your dinner choices — pizza, pasta, steak, seafood, or chicken — will arrive at your table perfectly prepared, well-seasoned and hot off the grill.

After a day of gallery hopping or sightseeing, a restorative Margarita from the 100 or so on the menu at Maria’s may be “just what the doctor ordered!” It’s a long-standing tradition, where Santa Fe friends meet and visitors to the city go to make new friends and exchange stories. It’s lively and loud, usually crowded, exceedingly friendly and welcoming, and totally likeable. I’m not kidding. Don’t hesitate to ask locals for recommendations for a late dinner or an early breakfast.

New bars and restaurants spring up regularly, while others have been open for decades, if not centuries.

What to Do

Excursions from Santa Fe provide a long list of opportunities. Depending on your interests, you can fish clear lakes or swift-running mountain streams. Visit Native American pueblos to learn about the ancient cultures that have existed here for centuries. Visitors are welcome, but respect the traditions of each pueblo, especially if you visit on a feast day or for a special ceremony.

Visit the Bradbury Science Museum in Los Alamos. It explains the history of the Manhattan Project and other research and discoveries during the atomic age, as well as continuing scientific studies. Admission is free, and the museum is open every day except Monday, but check current hours. On the way to Los Alamos, about an hour from Santa Fe, stop at Bandelier National Monument to explore ancient cliff dwellings in the Jemez mountains. Nearby Frijoles Canyon offers spectacular scenery and views.

The award-winning Los Alamos Nature Center is filled with interactive exhibits and displays, including live animals, a topo map of the surrounding plateau, a children’s discovery area, information about the Valles Caldera, and a wonderful planetarium. Evidence of volcanic action is still detected at this dormant, but not extinct caldera, formed by an eruption more than a million years ago. It’s a not-to-be-missed attraction, especially if you’re traveling with kids.

Las Vegas lies an hour or east of Santa Fe. In addition to its historic Old Town, the Las Vegas National Wildlife Refuge boast 8,000 acres of grasslands, wetlands, and forests, where birders and hikers can explore to their heart’s content. Guided tours are available at historic Fort Union that played a pivotal role in both Indian conflicts and the Civil War, and the Rough Rider Museum sheds light on the time that Theodore Roosevelt spent in New Mexico, offering insights into his legacy. Finally, a visit to Montezuma Castle, a pueblo structure built more than 800 years ago, gives visitors a unique glimpse into the history of the area. Las Vegas also has an active modern arts community, and you’ll find galleries, eateries, and plenty to round out a visit to an interesting historic town.

Madrid, pronounced with an emphasis of the “Mad,” is on the back road to Albuquerque, and if you’re driving, it’s worth your time to explore this funky old coal mining town turned artist’s colony. Madrid is pretty much the midpoint of The Turquoise Trail, the designated scenic byway between Tijeras, east of Albuquerque, and Santa Fe. It passes through the small towns of Cedar Crest, Sandia Park, Golden, Madrid, Cerrillos, and Lone Butte/San Marcos on its way to “the top of the trail,” and Santa Fe. The Mine Shaft Tavern in Madrid is worth a visit, whether you make it a lunch excursion from Santa Fe, or a stop along the Turquoise Trail.

Finding Enchantment in The City Different

New Mexico is termed the Land of Enchantment. I was first introduced to this enchantment in the mid-7o’s when I visited as a tourist from Dallas. Then, I moved to Santa Fe in 1991, and spent nearly 20 years there. During my tenure, the city changed in many ways, and I moved on. But my love for Santa Fe never waned. In some ways, I still miss the city, the culture, and the lifestyle. I have not returned often enough over the decade or so since I left. But each time I do, I fall in love with the city all over again. It tugs at my heartstrings.

If you haven’t previously visited this magical place, perhaps you too will be captivated as I was. Try not to draw comparisons with other places. Just enjoy it because it is The City Different.

In Santa Fe, you can eat the food of many different cultures, gaze at stars in the sky so bright you’d swear you could reach up and touch them. Breathe in the fresh mountain air — it will be pinon-scented in the winter from the wood that burns in local fireplaces. Smell the lilacs in the spring and savor the scent of roasting chiles in the fall. Bask in the warm sun all summer and don your boots to hear the crunch of fresh snow on crisp winter days. The sun will shine most days, no matter what the season. Hopefully, no matter how long you stay, you’ll leave wanting to return.

Pick and choose from the seemingly unending buffet of treats that Santa Fe offers. Stop to enjoy its quiet beauty. A traveler’s best resource is the Official Visitors Guide. It provides a great introduction to the City Different. View it online or request a copy delivered right to your home.

Note: The recommendations I have made are all based on personal knowledge gained during the years I was a resident of Santa Fe or my travels in New Mexico over the years. I have not been compensated, financially or otherwise, based on opinions I have shared.

Capturing a vision of future travel

There are as many travel styles as there are schools of art expression, but rarely does anyone speak of travel as an art form. I have been thinking of that these past few months, as I have left home several times for both business and pleasure, and as the reality of travel has almost returned to the norm of pre-pandemic times.

What strikes me is that taking to the skies and seas and roadways of our globe — just for the fun of it — has indeed become a lost art. In the wake of governmental restrictions and health recommendations, travel requires more thought and planning than it once did. I don’t know if I will ever again feel completely free to set foot out in the world without some serious advance arrangements and a good bit of thought about the details of a trip.

Will vaccination updates, masks, hand sanitizers and health screenings continue? Will we be required to pay heed to worldwide travel advisories as the earth becomes more divided based on nationalities and dogma? Have restrictions become accepted? Just what are the acceptable guidelines for travel? Will health requirements and some form of social distancing become even more stringent? Have we seen an end to overcrowded buses and packed elevators? (I know, some of that may be a good thing!)

What kind of traveler you are has to do with personality, inclination and DNA. There are cautious planners, those who will only travel with a group and a well-planned itinerary, the Jack Kerouac types who prefer to set out for adventure with no destination in mind. There are those who thrive on the sense of freedom that unplanned itineraries provide, and purposeful travelers who have specific goals and seek meaning from every experience. And there are also those who have pretty much given up on travel except when it’s absolutely necessary. Do you know your type? Or do you let the destination dictate the type of journey? Do you agonize over the right degree of preparedness?

Even if you’re a no-fear rambler, it doesn’t hurt to have a game plan before setting out.

New outbreaks of Coronavirus makes it timely to review some basic travel precautions, not all of them health-related. While mandatory quarantine lasting two weeks or longer is certainly unusual anymore, accidents and delays can result in extended time away from home, and incidents, unfortunately, are not that unusual.

The Goal is to Stay Well and Enjoy Life

Staying well while traveling is a primary goal, and following recommended practices should never be optional. But I believe that traveling the world is truly no more hazardous to one’s health or sanity than staying on home turf.

We are all exposed to innumerable unknown viruses every time we venture out in public — to the supermarket, a shopping center, a restaurant or the gas station. If you attend church or visit your child’s school, you are probably at risk. Unfortunately, even the best masks are not 100% effective. Nor will they protect us from all ills. Common colds and flu-like symptoms can, under the right circumstances, become as deadly as COVID-19. Remember the names that plagued us in the past — Legionnaires Disease, norovirus and hepatitis. And before that, there were others — malaria, typhoid, typhus, yellow fever and other mosquito-borne disease, as well as polio, TB, measles and chicken pox.

Humans have been a breeding ground for disease for millennia.

And about the risks travelers face:

Stepping off a curb can result in a sprain and any number of minor mishaps can keep you away from your office, or cut into your fun. Bending over to pick something up can be the cause of a charleyhorse, a cramp or worse.

Those things happen whether you’re at home or out in the world. And that actually might be one of the better reasons to get away as often as possible. A spur-of-the-moment excursion helps keep us all balanced. Even an impromptu picnic in the park is sometimes enough to lift us out of the doldrums and give us a new lease on life when it has become too routine or too tedious.

This is by way of affirming that I will continue to be on the road routinely, in an airplane or on the seas, going where and when I can, for whatever reasons I choose. I will follow any mandated directives in place at the time but I will not stay home simply because I cannot travel in the same manner that I was able to travel yesterday — or five years ago, or when I was 20!

Read the Current Regulations

Governments and healthcare providers are only too willing to recommend “best practices” for future travel. Pay attention. Get those shots, stock up on masks if need be, travel with sanitizers and sterilizers if you must and follow all the guidelines, not only for the next outbreak of a contagious illness, but also to lessen common health risks in the areas you intend to visit. Know before you go if additional vaccinations are required. Ask your medical provider about potential treatments for any situations you anticipate, whether they are motion sickness, sunburn or stomach upset. Travel with the preventive aids that will help keep you fit and well, or make you feel better when necessary.

Prescription Medications

Always travel with an ample supply of those pills and medical aids that you regularly use, even if you only plan to be away overnight. Take extras. For longer, planned getaways, bring copies of actual prescriptions, have your pharmacist or physician prepare a list for you on official letterhead, and keep your pharmacy name and prescribing physician’s name and telephone number handy.

Don’t forget prescription eyeglasses and hearing aid batteries, or spare earpieces, if necessary. A second pair of reading glasses or sunglasses, along with your vision prescription, and an eyeglass repair kit are always handy.

Physical Aids and Implements

Even if you use them only rarely, bring those medical aids that make your life easier. If you use a CPAP machine at night, don’t travel without it. Other items that can be invaluable when traveling include:

  • A folding or telescoping cane; or an umbrella that can double as a walking stick;
  • Compression socks;
  • An emergency tooth repair kit. Speaking from experience, losing a crown in a foreign country is no fun!
  • Band-Aids, eye drops and digestive aids;
  • An all-purpose antiseptic cream.
  • Lemon drops and candied ginger strips — my personal favorites for sudden nausea.

You might have other items that you consider vital, but know that you can always purchase grooming aids, shampoo, or toothpaste anywhere in the world you find yourself. Don’t use valuable space to bring those items from home.

Additional Conveniences

Aside from health needs, there are some other things that can make every trip easier and more pleasant. Whether you plan a long road trip or a long flight, and no matter what season it might be, the following items will serve you well:

  • A lightweight scarf or shawl that can double as a blanket;
  • sunglasses or an eye mask for grabbing quick naps;
  • slipper socks and/or a pair of flip flops;
  • Head covering: A straw hat, a baseball cap or a scarf that be used as a neckband;
  • A plastic poncho or lightweight rain jacket;
  • A tote that folds to the size of a slim wallet, or a mesh bag that can accompany you to an open market or for souvenir shopping.

With the above items tucked into a shoulder bag, and one wheeled carry-on bag, you can get by for days or even weeks on the road. If you’re packing for a cruise, you might want a larger suitcase — but these days, that’s a personal choice as well.If you plan to do a lot of walking, always include at least one extra pair of shoes or lightweight boots. And, give your feet and legs a break by taking regular breaks. Sit with your feet elevated when you have a chance! Don compression socks for long flights or during extended rail or bus trips.

Cultivate Adaptability

Taking flight or taking to the open road means checking the weather so that you have some idea of what to expect. I agree that it’s no fun to sit on the tarmac, but responsible planning allows for weather delays, missed connections, traffic snarls and last-minute route changes. Know your options before the trip begins, and know that well-laid plans sometimes go awry or must be adjusted. It may not always be fun, but don’t let it become disastrous. Practice deep breathing, and simply consider your alternatives.

Old school traveler that I am, I always like to have a paper map of my route or destination city tucked in my carry-on bag. I know that digital connectivity is not always reliable. Maps serve a dual purpose: Even if you don’t speak the language, you can always communicate by pointing to a spot on the map. Trust me, it works!

Create a ‘Most Dreaded’ List

Then plan what you would do, if . . . You might be surprised how confronting your worst fears and considering your options in advance can remove the dread of traveling. Sometimes, acknowledging your fears will help keep them in check.

For instance, if you’re concerned about getting separated from your partner or travel group, arrange in advance to meet in a convenient place at a specific time. Then, if the fear becomes a reality, simply resort to your fallback plan. You may have a great story to tell when you meet up with your companions.

Other travel occurrences can lead to more serious consequences. So, here’s an additional list of wise habits. Not that they cover every contingency, but they might help.

  • Travel with a photocopy of your passport. Include a list of the U.S. embassy or consulate addresses and telephone numbers in the major cities you plan to visit. Snap a photo of the written information and save it to your smart phone. With such information, you can easily replace a lost or stolen passport.
  • If you’re traveling internationally, check your cell phone service for the countries you plan to visit. Pay supplemental fees if necessary to ensure you’ll have basic emergency service, at minimum. Always keep your phone charged, and carry it with you. Investigate other means of communication, like WhatsApp.
  • Try to learn at least a few phrases in the language of the places you’re visiting. Don’t worry about being fluent! Native speakers appreciate your efforts and are more likely to help if you can say please, thank you, or “Where is the toilet?” in their language.
  • Always consider travel insurance. Although you may never submit a claim, the fee you pay will be more than worth it if you become ill, if you have to arrange for emergency repatriation, if you miss a connection and must make new arrangements for lodging, food and travel, or if your luggage is lost and you need to purchase a new wardrobe.

I believe that getting away should always be enjoyable! It’s partly a matter of attitude, but confidence comes from planning. Dedicated homebodies and adventurous souls alike should take the time to consider, in advance, how to eliminate the stress of travel. More than anything else, resolve to cultivate your curiosity. Approach every trip as a learning experience. Strike up conversations with strangers, especially if you face travel delays. Sharing helps make the time pass more pleasantly.

All too often, an unintended travel glitch will become one of your favorite travel stories.

Think of travel as an art form, and explore the different ways it will enrich your life. You’ll arrive home with beautiful memories. Believe it!