Food

Uncovering Roatan’s Hidden Treasures

~ adriennecohen221 ~ Leave a comment

Roatan is a beautiful, small island, with clear water and friendly people. On previous cruise visits to the tiny island of Roatan off the coast of Honduras, my husband and I had seldom ventured far from the port and nearby beaches. We had occasionally talked about returning to the island to spend a week at a local hotel, but that idea had never matured. So, once again, we were on a Gulf of Mexico cruise that included this port call. This time, we were determined to venture beyond the “tourist trap” at the end of the pier. I use that term in the sense of a protected enclave that offers short-term visitors an opportunity to purchase local crafts and souvenirs.

I am sorry this has become the norm in so many cruise ports throughout the world. These shopping and entertainment enclaves offer visitors only a filtered view. They are filled with chain shops and eateries, even though they often feature local entertainment and crafts. They are pleasant enough to visit, but they are in no way the same as visiting the country. Sadly, my husband and I had fallen victim to a skewed vision of Roatan, based on previous short visits. But this trip changed all that. We considered spending the day at a local beach. Instead, I found and booked a private tour of the island through Get Your Guide and its local affiliate, Roatan Trips and Tours.

It was an eye-opening experience, against which I will be likely to judge future tours in other destinations. I may not return to Roatan, but I will hold memories of this experience dear, and I have unique photos of our visit as well as mind pictures etched deep in my consciousness.

That’s the joy of travel — stumbling into situations that alter one’s perceptive, right?

Our four-hour tour stretched beyond the stated time constraints, but we weren’t watching the clock. I found the time spent with Jorge, our personable local guide, invigorating, enriching, and rewarding, and he had promised to return us to the dock before our ship was scheduled to sail. He did just that. The tour more than fulfilled my expectations, and my husband and I left believing that we had made a new friend who would welcome us back to Roatan should we choose to return. It pinpoints what is missing from many shore tours — the personal connection.

Let me explain.

Exploring Local Culture

We docked early the morning of February 1 at Mahogany Bay, while the mist was still clinging to the folds in the forested slopes that extend down to the sea.

Used almost exclusively by Carnival Corporation, Mahogany Bay boasts an aerial tram that runs from the port to a nearby beach for a nominal fee. We disembarked in time to stroll leisurely through the port enclosure. Even though our ship, the Regal Princess, was the only one in port that day, the area already seemed alive with both locals and visitors.

The island’s larger dock is known as the Port at Town Center, situated further west along the coast, adjacent to Coxen Hole, Roatan’s major city. It is used by almost all other cruise lines and can accommodate three large ships at a time, one alongside the dock and two at anchor. The port area is currently being enlarged and improved; construction activity is expected to continue through 2024; perhaps longer. Royal Caribbean’s Wonder of the Seas was alongside the dock at Town Center.

Icon of the Seas, Royal Caribbean’s newest vessel and the largest cruise ship currently sailing, was scheduled to make an inaugural call there on March 4. It officially entered service on January 27, 2024, with the ability to carry 7,600 passengers and more than 2,500 crew members. I found myself wondering if tiny Roatan could handle that many additional cruise passengers, particularly if other ships were also in port.

On the day we visited, it is probable that cruise visitors numbered upwards of 5,000.

We typically disembark and explore port cities on our own, walking or riding local buses. We sometimes hire a cab driver for an hour or two. Less often, we join a planned excursion. Before this trip, we had debated whether we would disembark at all in Roatan. I could have canceled our excursion at the eleventh hour, but we’re happy we chose to take the tour. We count the time we spent with our guide as one of the highlights of our cruise, and I readily admit that Roatan has much to offer beyond the port facilities.

When we disembarked, we walked to the far side of the port compound and then took a brief jitney ride to the designated meeting point outside the port area. The fee was minimal. Guides from multiple companies waited there to ferry passengers to local beaches or other island destinations. We visited with local tour operators and fellow cruise passengers as we awaited our driver/guide.

He arrived, apologetic that he had been delayed by traffic. The excursion had been billed as a “design your own” tour, offering options to visit local beaches, go snorkeling or sailboarding, shop if we wished to do so, spend some time at a chocolate factory or a monkey or sloth sanctuary, and several other possibilities. We told our guide, Jorge (or George), that we wanted him to show us his island, and asked only if there might be a restaurant with a water view where we could stop for a simple lunch.

Jorge agreed, and we set off.

Learning About “Jorge’s Island”

Like many islands, Roatan is a land of contrasts. The island has a rich history, some of it very different from the history of mainland Honduras. Once a British colony, 17th Century Roatan boasted a population of about 2,000 pirates with more than 500 houses in the northern city of Port Royal. That city is now in ruins, and the island’s resorts exist primarily at the other end of the skinny, curving island, congregated in West End and West Bay. The first language of native islanders is English, although in recent decades, increasing numbers of Spanish-speaking residents have made their homes on Roatan.

During the next several hours, we saw much of Roatan, including some areas where day visitors do not normally venture. Roatan is the largest of a group of seven islands located about 40 miles off the northern coast of Honduras. But it is a small island, measuring approximately 48 miles long and varying from one to five miles wide.

The Meso-American Barrier Reef, the second-largest in the world, surrounds Roatan and is known for its biodiversity and extraordinary reef diving. Daily flights arrive from Miami, Houston, and Phoenix at the airport that lies between the two cruise ports. It is estimated that upwards of 1.6 million tourists visit Roatan annually.

We drove past tony all-inclusive resorts on this beautiful spit of land, many with private beaches and over-the-water bungalows, some hidden behind iron gates and lush greenery. There are no high-rises, but inland some new multi-story condos and rental apartments are under construction, some with incredible views.

We passed waterside restaurants and bars, and numerous piers boasting fishing, diving, or snorkeling expeditions. Roatan boasts some of the clearest water and best beaches in the Gulf, and it is renowned for its diving and snorkeling possibilities. We saw local homes, both large and small, in small communities and near the water.

We encountered roadside vendors selling fresh fruit and other wares, and we saw local shopping centers, and even a casino!

We turned off the main highway and followed dirt roads to shorelines devastated by recent storms. Some buildings and playgrounds have not been rebuilt since the last hurricane passed through. We drove through small local communities and slowed to allow groups of young children to move out of our path. They smiled, and we waved.

A Story of Growth and Development

There is evidence of growth and development everywhere, from road building and infrastructure to modern offices, warehouses, shopping areas, and condos. But much of the island is old, and many of its residents are poor. Many homes and buildings are in need of repair.

Jorge pointed out an impressive columned mansion that belonged to Roatan’s former Mayor Dale Jackson, an island native who amassed a fortune from his fishing business. He also showed us grocery stores and shopping centers, factories, homes and apartments, and tumbling-down old structures that seem beyond repair. He showed us schools and children at play, and we drove through neighborhoods and business districts where people invariably greeted us with smiles.

We drove past modern “mini-malls,” and stopped at a small shopping center to visit a chocolate factory. I was enthralled to see how cacao beans are processed. I followed the multi-step process from bean to chocolate bar, and watched as cocoa butter was processed in a blender. The scent alone made me want to taste the chocolate. We were offered samples and could not resist purchasing several different varieties of Honduran chocolate to take home.

Jorge told us about his family, about the realities of life on a small island, about the Honduran economy, taxes, government, medical care, education, and business. We asked how life on Roatan differs from life on the mainland. He smiled and explained that living on the island is good, despite the hardships. Life on the mainland, he said, is “not so good.” We asked about his past and his hopes for the future. Although medical care is available on the island, he noted, residents must travel to the mainland for a complete physical exam. He told us he had just been to the mainland for his annual physical, and he was happy to be home with a clean bill of health.

He gave us each a paper bill — Un Lempira — each worth about four U.S. cents, explaining that Honduras recently phased out its coins. Today all the currency is paper. I bought a keepsake magnet that shows some of the now retired coins.

We asked about local housing and food. Jorge pointed out some newer condos and vacation homes under construction. We wondered about the pricing. Suffice it to say that waterfront properties are expensive, as in any prime vacation market, and larger homes on waterfront property can range into the millions in U.S. dollars.

Jorge answered all our questions, and we gained a better understanding of the Honduran economy, local issues, and island culture than we could have learned from a guidebook or a printed brochure. We tried to answer his questions about our life in the United States as honestly as he had shared information about his homeland.

Feasting on Island Specialties

Then, Jorge steered us to a beachside cabana with a rustic bar and a few picnic tables. We sat looking out at the gentle waves and watched children and adults play in the surf while we sipped cooling drinks and asked more questions about life in Roatan. Jorge talked about his family, his wife, and his sons who work in the construction field.

It was a peaceful interlude. I had not realized that there is so much for tourists to see and do on the island. I was more than pleased that we had this relaxing time to share with Jorge.

I asked about restaurants and his food favorites, and a few minutes later, he stopped his car outside a bustling food bazaar. Jorge left us for a few moments, quickly returning with what he called the “Honduran cheeseburger.” It’s delicious! A soft warm tortilla filled with beans, cheese, and a dollop of sour cream. The humble baleada may also be filled with additional ingredients — scrambled eggs, grilled meat, onions, or avocado, upon request — to make this simple street food a hearty breakfast or a tasty lunch treat.

The next time you visit a foreign destination, take the time to interact with local people. All-inclusive resorts, luxury hotels, fine dining, and secluded beaches certainly have their place, but it’s frequently the unexpected encounters with ordinary residents that leave the most indelible impressions on the heart and mind. That’s the gift that Jorge gave us on this tour.

Now, About Lunch

Jorge had not forgotten our earlier request for a simple lunch. After confirming that we had little interest in cuddling a sloth or interacting with parrots, he steered us toward French Harbor, a well-known and popular part of the island. He promised us a view, and a meal, that we would remember. After only a little coaxing, he agreed to join us.

Gio’s is a popular and well-known Roatan establishment that has operated in the same location since 1994. Tourists and islanders alike tout it for the friendly service, the food, the panoramic views, and the laid-back atmosphere. The specialty of the house is Spiny Caribbean King Crab, so that’s what my husband ordered. I ordered what I thought would be a sampler plate of fried plantains and other appetizers. We planned to share. Jorge chose beef and vegetables (perhaps, because he lives on the island, he has his fill of seafood and fish?) In any case, we all were happy!

The meal served as a memorable conclusion to our day on the island. With full bellies and more-than-satisfying memories of time spent on an island we now know and understand a little better, we were saddened at the thought of saying goodbye to a new friend. He dropped us back at Mahogany Bay. We could not say goodbye, however, without snapping a few pictures and exchanging heartfelt hugs.

We carry the memory of a few hours spent in Roatan with Jorge as one of the true pleasures to be found through travel.

Just For the Fun of It . . .

~ adriennecohen221 ~ Leave a comment

Stoby’s, known as the home of a much-loved cheese dip known well by residents of Russellville, Arkansas, was the destination for a caravan of approximately 15 convertibles on Thursday, April 11.

The lovingly polished convertibles, all with tops down, arrived for lunch in Russellville after a scenic drive along “steep and curvy” Arkansas scenic byways. At times, workers, residents, and forestry crews along the route stopped what they were doing to wave as the caravan passed, and vehicles traveling on intersecting roadways usually did the same. It was the first “Escape the Gate” excursion of 2024 for a loosely organized group of convertible owners from Hot Springs Village, a planned community approximately 50 miles south of Russellville.

Many of the convertibles gathered at the designated meeting place outside the Village’s West gate at 10 a.m. with their tops up, drivers and passengers wearing fleece hoodies or quilted vests over sweaters and sweatshirts. Even though the day had dawned clear with a bright sun shining, the temperature was still a breezy 49 degrees as the time neared for departure. But depart we did, most of the vehicles with tops down, windows rolled up, and heat on. However, spirits were high, spring was in the air, and the fun of an hour-long drive through rural Arkansas was on the agenda.

No Age Limit on Good Times

This is a purely social group, with no regularly-scheduled meetings, no dues, and no participation requirements. There is little planning involved in scheduling an outing away from our gated community, and there are no regularly scheduled events. It is more a “looks like Thursday might be a good day for a road trip” kind of effort — the word for this excursion was spread by telephone with only four days’ notice. Excursions over the past couple of years typically include lunch at a destination not more than a couple of hours from the Village. After lunch, participants may continue to explore a new area or find their own way home via a route and on a timetable that is theirs alone.

Lunch is “Dutch treat,” and sometimes it’s as simple and old-fashioned as a picnic in a park.

Highways in the area are typically two-lane paved roads with little traffic. The routes are invariably scenic, sometimes winding through national forest land, skirting nearby streams and rivers, passing former CCC-improved picnic areas and campgrounds, or with views of local dams, locks, and spillways. Last year, the convertible club made two well-attended trips to nearby state parks. Once, the group made a scheduled stop at the Rockefeller Museum of Automobiles on the way, before proceeding on to Petit Jean State Park for lunch in a rustic lodge with a view of the surrounding valley beyond. Another time, the destination was a distinctive diner with the unlikely name of Toad Suck Buck’s, situated along the shore of the Arkansas River. The eatery is renowned for its steaks, and the owner, Ted Buck, had agreed to open his establishment to specially accommodate our group!

Let’s be clear, this is not a road rally or a race. Drivers are not off-road enthusiasts or backwoods explorers. Most are middle-aged or older gentlemen and their partners who simply like to put the tops down on their well-kept BMWs, Mustangs, Corvettes, or beloved motorized “toys” that run the gamut from aging Chevys and Toyotas to classic European sports cars.

And, yes, there are female owners and drivers in the group. With tops down and hair flying, women are perfectly able to put the pedal to the metal with skill and purpose.

It’s all for fun — did I already say that?

The most common comment when the group arrives at each destination is “What fun! We ought to do this more often.”

Now, About Stoby’s

The history of this eatery reads somewhat like fiction. But it’s all true!

This time, the attraction was a diner that started out in a single rail car. It has now grown to encompass a new “train station-sized” compound with several dining rooms the size of the original rail car. Stoby’s story is unique, and the hometown sensation celebrates its 40th anniversary in business this year! David Stobaugh (nickname Stoby) has a history, to be sure!

Retro decor and old photographs lend period charm to the eatery, and patrons are invited to sound a train whistle as they arrive at the diner. The food is worth the drive, both for quality and price! And the story is worth repeating!

Stoby’s is known for its Cheese Dip. It was sold at Walmart between 1992 and 2012. The diner is acclaimed for its sandwiches, made with a choice of breads, an option to choose two or three meats, and to select two cheeses from six options, all served with lettuce and tomato, and Stoby’s special sauce.

The menu also offers extensive additional food options, and all portions are more than amply-sized. There are salads and soups, burgers and fries, quesadillas, chicken tenders, a variety of pastas, and a month’s worth selection of cold and grilled sandwiches. To-go boxes are readily provided along with each order, and most diners happily take leftovers home for another meal from this legendary diner. We certainly did!

Stoby’s serves lunch from 11 – 9, but opens for breakfast at 6 a.m. daily

The appeal of Stoby’s goes beyond its good food, its prompt and friendly service, and its “small town boy made good” success story, however. Did we mention the desserts?

Although we had no room for pie or cake after our meal, we noted that others skipped the sandwiches and went straight for the sweets. Maybe next time. The display case certainly makes desserts look tempting.

Beyond Tradition: Rethink Thanksgiving

~ adriennecohen221 ~ Leave a comment

There’s just something wonderful about autumn, isn’t there? Cooler temperatures, back-to-school events, football, falling leaves, pumpkins, gourds, and savory spices all signal a distinctly different approach to life and leisure activities.  

But fall has sped by for me this year, interspersed with travel and the demands of daily life. Suddenly, it’s Thanksgiving week and I’m not at all prepared.

But this year, instead of giving in to guilt, I am letting Thanksgiving week play out in an entirely different way. My husband and I are looking forward to the activities we enjoy rather than dreading the dawn of Thursday and lamenting what was left undone for a big family dinner.

You see, we will forgo the “feast” this year in favor of largely unplanned, spontaneous activities that are scattered throughout the week and into the weekend.

On Thanksgiving Day, we will be with friends who, like us, have no nearby family, and even less reason to want or need turkey with all the traditional sides. There will be no roast turkey with mashed potatoes and gravy, no green bean casserole, no sweet potatoes with marshmallows, and no jellied cranberry sauce. And, best of all, no last-minute worries before the guests arrive!

Instead, we have opted for an “orphan potluck” this year. We anticipate a casual, laid-back vibe, with good conversation interspersed with holiday spirit and cheers for our favorite teams.

We fully intend to celebrate, and you can be assured we are thankful for the blessings of home and friends this year. We will check in with our far-flung families and wish them well. And then we will celebrate the bounty of our table and the bonds of friendship with others in this small community we now call home. What could be more appropriate?

The dozen or so like-minded friends who will join us have all volunteered to bring a variety of favorite dishes. We’ll have appetizers and wine, perhaps a creative charcuterie board with delectable finger foods. And we’re not totally abandoning tradition – we have a smoked turkey breast ready to reheat!

This year, I am thankful for the freedom to read a book, listen to music, watch the Macy’s parade, or maybe even a Hallmark movie on television — all before our friends arrive in the early afternoon!

Times change, as do the seasons. I am eager to see what this new-fangled Thanksgiving celebration feels like. Perhaps it will become our new annual tradition.

A neighbor promised a hearty pasta dish, and others are likely to surprise us with their favorites. There will be home-baked bread and (again from a neighbor, with a nod to tradition!) pumpkin pie to top it all off. As always, at Thanksgiving, it’s not all about the food, but we’re certain there will be plenty of food!

I love many things about Thanksgiving, especially the presence of family and friends. And pumpkin! So, I am searching for pumpkin recipes with a new twist and updating my holiday favorites. Pumpkin, after all, need not be reserved solely for Thanksgiving. Why not enjoy pumpkin treats until it’s time to embrace hot chocolate and peppermint?

During an October trip to the San Francisco Peninsula, I was impressed by, among other things, the expanse of colorful pumpkin fields that stretched almost to the Pacific shore. Our group stopped at Farmer John’s Pumpkin Patch near Half Moon Bay – who knew so many kinds of pumpkin existed? The vibrant displays were eye-catching and tempting when most visitors were searching for the perfect jack-o-lantern pumpkin! I wish I could have brought several home to Arkansas!

Just last week, on a trip to Maine, I found that pumpkin recipes were the talk of the town, so to speak! And there were more pumpkin displays in local yards and grocery stores. That started me thinking, not only about Thanksgiving, but about the extended holiday season as well, about hot cider, roasted vegetables, sweet potatoes, chocolate, and creative soups that chase away winter’s chill.

This year, I’m trying to simplify my life while at the same time wanting to expand my food repertoire. I have been collecting new recipes since I returned from California. I have more from relatives in Maine, and a supermarket magazine provided even more.  

Consider this a challenge to get creative this year, especially during the festive season that extends from  Thanksgiving through the dawn of the new year. So many other flavors combine well with pumpkin that you can experiment to your heart’s content! Don’t limit its use to pie, cookies, or breads.

Incorporate unique and exotic spices. Ginger is one of the best, along with cloves, cinnamon, cumin, turmeric, saffron, and paprika. They not only add wonderful flavor, but many of them offer health benefits as well. Not only the flavors but the colors will add punch to your recipes.

What else goes well with pumpkin? How about maple syrup, caramel, chocolate, apples, apricots, raisins, cranberries, and cheeses? The best part? As good as fresh pumpkin is you can cook with canned pumpkin throughout the year. I have already stocked up on that!

Here are just a few recipes to get you in the spirit. Let me know how you like them!

Family Favorite Pumpkin Bread

This truly is a family recipe that has been a favorite for generations, and I can attest to its goodness! Why not keep some in the freezer to bring out when unexpected guests arrive? It also can double as dessert, with a dollop of whipped cream.

42 2/3 cups sugar

2/3 cup cooking oil

4 eggs

1 ½ cups cooked pumpkin (or Libby’s brand canned pure pumpkin)

3 1/3 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon baking powder

1 ½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup chopped nuts

2/3 cup water

Mix sugar, oil, and pumpkin; then add eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. In a separate bowl, sift flour, baking powder, soda, and cinnamon. Combine pumpkin mixture with flour mixture. Add water and mix well. Then, add nuts and stir again. Pour into well-greased one-pound coffee cans, filling halfway. This amount of batter will fill four cans. Bake in a 300-degree oven for one hour. Allow bread to cool, then remove from cans. If you prefer, use medium loaf pans.

The bread freezes well: simply slip the cooled loaves back into the coffee cans and cover each with its plastic lid. T freeze pumpkin loaves, remove them from the baking pans when cool, cover them with plastic wrap, and then wrap in foil before freezing.  

Game Day Chili

If you like chili, I can almost guarantee you’ll love this one. It has all the traditional ingredients, with the surprise of a few extra veggies and a can of pure pumpkin. The bonus? It can be ready in a jiffy. Put it together quickly, then settle in to cheer your favorite team to victory. (Courtesy of Hannaford, a grocery chain committed to sustainability and the public good.)  

Ingredients:

1 Tbsp. canola oil

1 finely chopped medium yellow onion

1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped

1 pound lean ground beef

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbsp. chili powder

1 tsp. ground cumin

½ tsp. ground cinnamon

1 (6 -oz) can of tomato paste

2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth

2 (15-oz) cans of no-salt-added diced tomatoes

1 (15-ox) can pure pumpkin

1 ½ cups water, divided

2 (15-oz) cans no-salt-added kidney beans, drained and rinsed

  1. Heat oil in a large, sturdy pot on medium-high heat. Add onion and bell pepper, and saute 8 to 10 minutes, until browned and tender.
  2. Add beef and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until browned, using a wooden spoon to break into pieces.
  3. Add garlic, chili powder, cumin, and cinnamon, and cook for 30 seconds. Add tomato paste and stir constantly for 1 minute, until the color darkens. Add broth, tomatoes, pumpkin, and 1 cup of water. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until thickened. If chili is too thick, add the remaining ½ cup of water.
  4. Stir in beans and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook another 3 to 5 minutes, until thoroughly heated. Serve with your choice of sour cream and/or other garnishes.

Suggested garnishes:

Sour cream, chopped cilantro, finely chopped red onions, avocado cubes, radish slices, chopped jalapenos, oyster crackers.

It’s delicious with a loaf of either sourdough bread or a crusty baguette!

Pumpkin Deviled Eggs

This is a recipe I found online, and I can’t wait to try it!  

https://chosenfoods.com/blogs/central/pumpkin-spiced-deviled-eggs

If, like me, you’re a fan of the charcuterie board for impromptu get-togethers and are always in search of new additions to that board, you’ll love this one! Pumpkin deviled eggs, with their bright color and a hint of spice, are sure to become a favorite. As suggested, add some garnishes to make them extra special, and they’ll be gobbled up quickly — at Thanksgiving or any other time!

Cumin & Thyme Pumpkin Chicken Soup

Here’s a link to this tempting recipe that will easily serve six!

Cumin & Thyme Pumpkin Chicken Soup

How great is that for a busy day during the coming holiday season? Prepare a salad, add a simple dessert, and you’ll have a weekday dinner to feed the family! Or double the recipe to feed a crowd!

Full Disclosure: I haven’t yet made this soup, but you can be sure I will. I have tried several other Paul Newman recipes and liked each one. In addition. This requires minimal prep and cooking time, and I believe you could easily substitute canned chicken to make it even easier. Finally, and this is purely a personal observation: I am fully behind the Newman commitment to support worthy causes and I like using products that contribute to that effort.

If those aren’t enough, here are some twists on traditional treats:

Pumpkin Hummus

There are any number of recipes available online. Search one out if you’re determined to start from scratch. However, if you’re in a hurry for a tasty dip or spread, simply buy your favorite plain hummus, then swirl in some pureed pumpkin and a bit of fresh lemon. Top with finely chopped cilantro, sprinkle with paprika and toasted pine nuts, and serve with your favorite crackers or fresh veggies. It couldn’t be easier.

Pumpkin Goat Cheese Dip

This is another go-to idea that is superb for unexpected guests, or a simple appetizer. The flavor is uniquely satisfying, especially in the fall and during the holiday season. Serve with a variety of crackers, mini rye or pumpernickel slices, fresh veggies or button mushrooms. It’s sure to be a hit!

Again, it couldn’t be easier — soften the cheese, swirl in some pureed pumpkin. Form it into a log, a ball, or pack in into a ramekin, and serve with a variety of crackers, mini rye or pumpernickel slices, fresh veggies or button mushrooms.

It’s sure to be a hit!

Pumpkin Ice Cream

I admit that this is a newfound favorite – I was introduced to it during my recent trip to Maine. It’s available seasonally and I absolutely love it! There’s not much more to say about it, except that it’s a distinctive and delectable taste treat. The brand I had in Maine came from Trader Joe’s. I’ll definitely be watching for it, even if I have to wait until next fall to find it!

Need more ideas?

You’ll find recipes everywhere right now – from pumpkin scones to hearty cheese soup with the surprise of pumpkin and beer! Create comfort foods that you can enjoy throughout the season and into the new year!

And have a safe and happy Thanksgiving, no matter how, where, or with whom you celebrate.  

Food — the primary reason to cruise?

~ adriennecohen221 ~ 1 Comment

Okay, so taking a cruise isn’t all about the food — sunsets, entertainment, and destinations play a large part in the selection of itineraries. Luxury service, creature comforts, pools and hot tubs, spa treatments, and a variety of tantalizing activities appeal to young and old alike, But unlimited drink packages and specialty dining venues clinch the deal for a growing legion of cruise-ship passengers each season. Major cruise lines are quick to recognize that they must cater to the diverse needs and preferences of both veteran cruisers and first-timers, so options vary considerably from one line to another. They also may be quite different from the choices that existed just a few years ago.

Recent passenger statistics point to a cruising resurgence. Numbers are back to pre-pandemic levels, and passenger volume for 2023 is expected to reach 106% of the 2019 level, to a total of 31.5 million passengers, according to Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), and some ships now report sailing routinely at 100% capacity. Passenger totals dropped to less than five million in 2021 at the height of the pandemic, but 2024 numbers are projected to reach 36 million! That’s good for the cruise lines, and for the economy, but it means that travelers must make their plans earlier, particularly if they’re seeking bargain fares and any offered perks.

If you step back in time, transatlantic voyages were a means of getting from one continent to another, albeit in luxurious fashion. Today, a cruise is about a great deal more than getting somewhere. Trans-ocean itineraries now whisk cruise passengers in high style not only to and from Europe and America but from the West Coast to the Orient, from Asia to Africa, or to circle the globe on itineraries that stretch across months and seasons. The onboard experience is all-important.

One can traverse the Panama Canal as well as the Suez, cross the equator or the International date line, or drift lazily along the rivers in a score of different countries, sometimes even captaining your own vessel. Expedition cruises that package sightseeing with high-adventure experiences are growing in popularity.

It all makes me a little envious — how about you?

What about the food?

Yes, there certainly have been changes — but, for the most part, the elegance of cruise ship menu choices and the excellence of the food offerings remain! Even though midnight dessert buffets have almost universally disappeared, there is no shortage of food options on contemporary cruise ships. And lavish buffets offer a visual treat as well as wonderful food. Most offer the availability of food and drink from early morning to late at night — sometimes on a 24-hour basis!

Choose to take all your meals in your ship’s main dining rooms, or opt instead for lavish upper-deck buffets, specialty restaurants, or room service. For the most part, traditional dinner “seatings” are no longer specified. It’s all about choice, and the choices are extensive. Ships are getting larger, and on larger ships, passengers may not even have time to sample all the options! Early reports are that a new Royal Caribbean ship expected to debut in 2024 will feature at least 40 different dining venues.

Personalize your cruising experience

Last fall, on a brief round-trip sailing from Los Angeles to San Diego and Baja California aboard Discovery Princess, we enjoyed an abundance of tasty treats — from made-to-order hand-tossed pizza at Gigi’s Pizzeria at the heart of the ship’s three-level piazza, to loaded hot dogs and fries from the Salty Dog Grill adjacent to Deck 16’s pools. We even ordered a selection of street tacos via room service to consume on our private balcony!

We did not make it to the Salty Dog Gastropub that features gourmet burgers on Deck 5, but we met friends and enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails at Good Spirits at Sea, a lively bar and favorite gathering spot just across the Piazza. The International Cafe is just next door, and it was hard to resist sampling a sandwich with a cocktail. It became even more difficult to refuse a pastry treat with a mid-morning latte or a late-night espresso. As is our tradition aboard ship, we were awakened each morning — at a time of our choosing — by a knock on our stateroom door signaling the arrival of a pot of coffee, sometimes accompanied by a selection of croissants and pastries! Isn’t that the height of personal pampering? On Princess Line ships, it’s just one of the complimentary amenities.

While we chose to enjoy a leisurely dinner in one of the ship’s superb dining rooms most evenings, after a busy day of sightseeing in San Diego, we opted for lighter fare when we returned so we could watch our sailaway from the upper deck. Another evening, we indulged in a multi-course dinner at the Crown Grill before moving on for evening entertainment at the nearby Princess Live! lounge. With all the different options available, we did not want for food at any time of day!

What to expect on your cruise vacation?

The dizzying number of options means that you must do some initial homework even before you shop for a ship. The increased popularity of river cruising adds another dimension. Today, you can opt for a laid-back, relatively casual three-day excursion out of Florida to a Caribbean island, a week-long cruise in the Mediterranean or a cruise that circles Australia, Japan, or the Hawaiian Islands. Alternatively, you can explore Alaska, Antarctica, the South Sea Islands, or the great rivers of Europe and the Americas, including the Nile, the Amazon, or the Mississippi. Combine a pre-or-post cruise land tour, and your choices are multiplied.

Choosing to cruise typically means that you pay for your vacation in advance, often including the port excursions that interest you. You unpack when you arrive at your port of embarkation with no need to pack up again for the duration of the cruise, be it seven days, three weeks, or more. Still, cruising is not for everybody. If you haven’t cruised before, it’s wise to dip your toes in the water, so to speak, on a three or four-day sailing combined with a visit to the port or a nearby beach. Also, be sure to investigate thoroughly the options and packages available from the various international cruise lines.

Not only have itineraries and destinations changed over the decades but so have cruising traditions. Where, in the past, formal attire — even ball gowns and tuxedos on occasion — were proper for dinner — the emphasis today is on informal. Some lines recommend “country club casual” with slightly upscale dress expected in the evening, and many ships still specify a formal night or theme party as part of each itinerary, usually with advance notice. Most travelers, however, don’t even pack multiple bags; sometimes a carry-on and a backpack will suffice, even for a week or longer, with laundry services available to passengers.

If you choose to join the millions of people who plan to cruise in 2023 and 2024, whether you cruise as a solo passenger, as a couple, or as part of a larger group of family or friends, Bon Voyage! Enjoy both sea days and port visits to the fullest, and don’t forget to take plenty of pictures! Most of all, savor the food!

Kansas Part 2 — Comfort food and much more

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I first met two of my traveling companions for this trip at the Kansas City Airport. We had arrived at approximately the same time from our starting points in Arkansas, Boston and Michigan. We did the only thing possible: we found a comfortable table in an airport eatery and proceeded to get to know one another until our host could pick us up.

After ordering coffees and ice water, we browsed a menu of mostly uninspired airport dining options. We did not know when we would rendezvous with our other four traveling companions, nor did we know exactly what our schedule had in store for later in the afternoon. However, we did know that we were destined for dinner at a barbecue restaurant in Fort Scott that evening. After some discussion, we decided to try the airport version of local barbecue. And we were pleasantly surprised! The three of us shared an order of barbecue pork sliders — one for each of us — ample small bites that were quite tasty.

If there’s a single universal impression of Kansas food, it’s probably of “comfort food,” and what’s more comforting to a Midwesterner than barbecue and fried chicken? More about that later.

Following an Uber ride and another round of introductions, our group was complete. We settled into our rental van for the drive from Kansas City to Fort Scott.

It was at dinner that first evening in Fort Scott that we were introduced to a great variety of barbecue options. The tagline on the menu at Luther’s BBQ, which opened in 2019 just prior to the pandemic, was “good food and plenty of it!” We were to find that could well be a statewide slogan.

The restaurant, housed in an historic brick building in the heart of Fort Scott, offered an extensive menu with much to sample — all simple food as it turned out. We enjoyed tasty deviled eggs and a variety of meats and cheeses — the best kind of finger foods, and delightful drink options, including a Bloody Mary that exceeded all expectations and was “write-home-about-good!”

Sadly, I must end my report about the meal we had at Luther’s, because a message on my computer lists the restaurant as “closed permanently.” I believe that Fort Scott residents were hoping it would be another success story in the city’s planned rejuvenation. Maybe it still will be. But, for now, the website is down, and the phone goes unanswered.

The only thing I regret? I didn’t get a “doggie bag” to take with me.

We spent the night at the historic Courtland Hotel in Fort Scott. My plate was full again the next morning with oversized breakfast burritos and specialty coffees from Common Ground Coffee Co., served picnic-style at the Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes. It was another treat in the lineup of Kansas attractions that awaited our group.

The second full day in Kansas was jam-packed with new sights and experiences.

It began at the Milken Center and continued with a drive along the stretch of historic Route 66 that still runs through the state. Kansas, at least this portion of it, hasn’t changed visibly over the past several decades. In many ways, that’s comforting. You know what they say — “The more things change . . . ” Well, yes, much does remain the same.

But change is in the air and there’s a lot more to come!

Hungry for the tastes of travel . . .

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More than the rush of excitement that greets us when we near a port, more than the thrill of sitting in a winged torpedo on the tarmac waiting for clearance, more than a sunrise on the horizon that signals another day in another place — what surpasses all of that, in my mind, is the variety of food that traveling allows us to experience.

The colors and flavors of foreign treats — whether a great meal, an after dinner “digestif,” or a perfect little chocolate on the pillow — these are the pieces of the travel experience that are hard to duplicate at home. The thrill of a new taste in an unfamiliar place is hard to describe. If you’re traveling close to home, it’s really no different. Keep your eyes open for the unexpected — we have discovered some of the best food in the unlikeliest of places — sublime fried catfish at a general store in back road Arkansas, for instance, an unforgettable steak dinner at an aging saloon in Ingomar, Montana, for instance, and the best fried green tomatoes ever at a ramshackle marina in the Florida Keys.

And, one lucky summer, an absolutely wonderful lobster roll at, believe it or not, a McDonald’s in a small Maine village. The only thing better than the taste was the price!

Traveling lifts us out of our ordinary existence into a realm of wonder that we want to repeat again and again. The cities, the food, the people, the monuments and the history, the natural beauty of different locales, the promise that no matter how many times we return to the same place, each experience will be different — that’s why we travel.

But, when we travel, the simple acts of sampling unique foods and sharing distinctive experiences with fellow travelers and with strangers destined to become newfound friends is an immense pleasure. Yes, we enjoy visiting renowned restaurants and seeking out special taste treats from unique cultures. “Peasant food,” however, the everyday fare of real people in diverse destinations, is what truly draws us, as do street fairs, farmers markets, food trucks. and Ma and Pa eateries.

People, of course, are always a part of the best food experiences, whether we’re ordering something from a food cart or a market stall, or struggling to make sense of a menu in a foreign language. We have perfected the art of pointing with a questioning expression — it always works! Being just a bit unsure of what it is we have ordered is truly part of the fun. And we have found locals typically quick to help translate and interpret.

Another aspect of the fun, for me at least, is my attempt to recreate some of the dishes we have enjoyed on our journeys once we return home. On a trip through Portugal in 2019, I was enamored of that country’s tomato soup in all its regional variations. I discovered an infinite variety of great tomato-based broth during our three weeks there. From the coasts to the cork forests, and from north to south, Soup de Tomate is a Portuguese staple on nearly every menu. It can be a hearty, filling stew with sausage and beans or a richly-flavored broth topped with poached eggs.

Other versions range from a nicely-spicy dish of seafood and rice to a simple, creamed tomato puree served as a starter course for a family dinner. Made with fresh, flavorful tomatoes, the various tomato soups were always tasty, filling and uniquely satisfying. Accompanied by crusty bread, cheese and olives, those meals were often “write home about” memorable. I asked for recipes whenever it was possible, and I am still trying to decide which is my personal favorite!

Global versions of “fast food” have their own kind of appeal — not the golden arches sameness or “choose your own filling” sandwich shops that Americans seem to favor — but the traditional, quick and easy street foods that sustain busy people throughout the world. One can get a slice of pizza, an empanada, a taco, a burrito, an egg roll, or a gyro in great cities around the globe; roasted corn, hot roasted chestnuts or fries with unique dipping sauces in European capitals and isolated villages. Ice cream, gelato and fruit smoothies are staples at casual stands and walk-up windows in warm climates, and open-face sandwiches and pastries are almost magically available from a world-class airport to an isolated beach along the Mediterranean. Food is a universal need, as well as a treat that brings people together to experience the joys of life.

So, I hope to lure you into the habit of sampling local fare wherever you may roam. It takes little effort to seek out distinctive food experiences, whether you’re in a world capital, visiting a charming small town, or traveling a country lane. Usually, these delightful destinations have no neon signs. Instead, a hand-written menu on a chalkboard may offer the only clue to treasures that lie within. Put aside the guidebooks and pay little heed to online reviews.

Peek through the windows of a diner, or step inside a tiny bistro. If seats are full, and people are smiling, join the crowd. On a road trip, we often pull into the parking lot of a local diner filled with local pickups and a smattering of 18-wheelers. Eagerly embrace your personal spirit of adventure, and you’ll likely reap the rewards of good, wholesome food served with a smile.

In the same way, wherever you may live, pay special attention to the push-cart vendors, the food trucks and the out-of-the-way lunch counters and snack bars. You may not always be delighted. There’s no guarantee.

But, if nothing else, you’re likely to have great stories to tell. And the best travel souvenirs, by far, are the stories you can repeat over and over again.

Looking back . . .

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During the past few months, I have spent many hours trying to organize travel photos and make sense of my travel notes and journals.

I have also spent hours poring over newly-discovered recipe books and cards saved by previous generations of family. They are nothing if not enlightening, filled with tasty treats meant for celebrating with family and friends, and also packed with ideas about how to “stretch” food enough to get through hard times. Some of them surprised me, and a few made me weep.

One — Fried Oatmeal — brought back childhood memories of what I thought at the time was the best breakfast ever, served hot and crispy from my grandmother’s cast iron frying pan. It was Fried Cornmeal Mush, the leftover raw material from a Sunday cornbread or stuffing dish, or perhaps leftover breakfast grits from a previous morning. Served with butter and syrup, it was a favorite way to start a day. However, cold cereal was much more common!

This particular card — one of a collection of recipes in a box that was obviously a promotional effort for Gold Medal Brands — notes: “This is a good way to use left over porridge.” I could not help but remember my grandmother’s refrain, “Waste not, want not,” as I pored over other cards in the sturdy wooden box.

Interspersed with the printed cards, there are traditional Scandinavian treats, some no doubt passed down from generations past. There are Polish and Russian dishes with beets, cabbages and potatoes. Many are hearty and filling, healthful and full of vegetables, but not overloaded with meat. Some are simple egg dishes. The desserts, I found, tend to be less sugary than today’s versions, and many rely on fresh fruit and spice for flavor and punch rather than chocolate and refined sugar.

There are many recipes for sweets made rich with butter and cream. Some of the old recipes required spending hours in the kitchen and intensive preparations for holiday observances. Others were quick and easy, no doubt meant for times when there were more important things to think about when food counted only as simple sustenance.

Hand-written recipes sometimes had notations — “easy or fine, or from Aunt Ida, or Papa’s favorite,” and I have found interesting notations even in familiar well-used hard-cover cookbooks, the standard reference for any cook back in the day. One made me smile: “Too much work!” Another simply bore a single word: “NO.” Many of these recipes are reminiscent of “Sunday dinners” and holidays, and of life well-lived in small towns or on farms throughout the flyover states. That is my heritage.

Others of those tattered recipe cards, however, bear the stigma of more difficult times, when food and funds were scarce, resources and pantry reserves were slim, and many of the men were off fighting wars in foreign lands. There are notes about sugar substitutes — sugar was one of the first products to be rationed during WWII. But rationing followed in 1943 for meat, butter, margarine, canned fish, cheese, canned milk, fats and oils. Fresh food was often in short supply simply due to the season or to transportation snags.

From the war years, there are numerous ideas for Jello molds, salads, and simple puddings. And there are “ration recipes” for meats.

Celebrations were more somber and homemakers “made do” in innovative ways in an effort to use available food stocks and to preserve a sense of hope during those lean days. Epidemics, wars, weather, the economy, and a shift from farms to cities all seemed to align against a comfortable existence during much of the 20th Century. But family life continued.

A “Hard Times” Recipe for Cinderella Crisps

The Secret: Magically turn ordinary white bread into extraordinary tea crisps. Scrumptious!

The Recipe:

6 slices trimmed white bread, each cut in 4 strips

1 can (14 oz.) sweetened condensed milk

2 2/3 cups (about) Baker’s Angel Flake Coconut

Using two forks, roll bread strips in sweetened condensed milk, coating all sides. Then roll in coconut. Place on well-greased baking sheet and bake at 375 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove at once from baking sheet. Makes about 24.

I will confess that this is one I have not tried, and probably will not. Please let me know if you do!

Moving on to New Experiences

Today I take it as a personal challenge to try to make healthful, tasty meals out of simple ingredients. I also have some recipe cards that became my “go-to” resource when I was a young bride with little kitchen experience to guide me. Perhaps not surprisingly, I still occasionally refer to them. I read recipe books with as much delight as the latest novels, but I tend to make up recipes as I go along, instead of adhering strictly to the directions. Although I like good food, I do not love spending unnecessary hours in the kitchen.

I collect recipes from my travels and love recreating the tastes of faraway places when I return home. I like to experiment with new flavors and seasonings, and I think meals should look appetizing, smell wonderful and taste great. Most of the time, I think meals should be prepared fresh, not pre-packaged or ordered as take out. I take as much delight in preparing a meal for two as I do planning a holiday open house. Those holiday gatherings have been in short supply this past year, haven’t they?

Perhaps before too many more special days pass, we will once again be able to celebrate together, with hugs and laughter, with old folks and babies, with new-found friends, and especially with family. This pandemic year has taken its toll. Hopefully we will get beyond it and look forward to the good times to come!

For now, it’s enough to remember.

Pizza — the ultimate comfort food?

~ adriennecohen221 ~ Leave a comment

My January/February issue of Food Network magazine arrived recently. Looking at the cover, I had to smile. Prominently displayed in mouthwatering color is a pizza with what appears to be some distinctly non-traditional toppings. I was eager to sit down with this new issue and explore ideas presented by some of my favorite television chefs.

And as I did just that on a chilly day when it was prudent to stay indoors, I was reminded of the pizzas I have ordered and consumed in faraway places . . . Here are some of my favorites from the previous few years of sampling good food in unique places! Pizza does indeed seem to have universal appeal!

Pizza, whether shared with friends, prepared at home, or ordered by the slice as a quick snack, always seems appropriate. The fact that it’s so versatile — and so varied — is a large part of its appeal. No matter how you enjoy your pizza, at home or abroad, with a soda, a glass of wine or a beer, chances are good that others will share your opinion and be willing to join you for a slice of goodness.

Because it’s still impossible to take to the skies, the seas or the highways across the globe, the next best thing — for me and for many others this year — has been to spend time in the kitchen, savoring new taste treats inspired by our globetrotting of the past. That has taken me, at least, on some unexpected journeys — recalling previous trips and wonderful food experiences — as well as into past times when life was at least as difficult as it is today and good food was hard to come by. I have become captivated by some of the dog-eared recipes in my grandmother’s recipe box.

More about those in coming days — It has been an insightful few weeks, and I’m eager to share some thoughts.

I realize how lucky I am to be alive today, in these times, as hard as it has been to be at home and not on the road during this pandemic. There’s a reason I chose to write about good food and far away places. Cooking and travel are both art forms in their individual ways. Each brings joy.

One of the travel realities that continues to surprise me is that it’s possible to find pizza on a menu almost anywhere on the globe. The “pandemic hours” that I spent organizing photos and notes of my travels have confirmed that good pizza is not confined by geography or defined by a particular culture, that the love of pizza transcends borders, and that it can be both a satisfying “street food” consumed on the run and a full meal elegantly presented. Or anything in between! Also, almost anything can become a pizza topping! From the delightfully simple basil and mozzarella-topped classic in a tiny Neapolitan trattoria to an oversize and overloaded game day pizza delivered direct to my doorstep, pizza is a beloved tradition, and a treat that only seems to gain favor with each passing year.

One shouldn’t miss the classic Pizza Margherita when visiting Naples! But there are many other pizza choices in other places. On our European trip in late 2019, we enjoyed pizza several times in distinctive locations, from a seaside restaurant with a stunning view of the Adriatic to a cozy small-town eatery tucked into a centuries-old building in Pula, Croatia. Pizza is a staple at airports across the globe, and during this summer’s pandemic shutdown, a required motel stay in Texas brought us “no contact” pizza delivery from a local take-out-only chain pizza parlor. It was our only option, and we were happy to have it!

I also found among my photos a shot of the familiar Domino’s sign in Barcelona, with a crowd of people awaiting their own orders, testimony to pizza’s universality!

Dessert pizzas have also become popular, and they are definitely worth a try. In addition, I have discovered how much fun it can be to make pizza at home; not only is it a great way to introduce kitchen skills to younger children, but there is nothing quite like the sense of accomplishment that comes from creating a hot and satisfying meal out of leftovers and “refrigerator finds!”

No matter how you slice it, it’s entirely possible to enjoy pizza wherever you may roam. By the way, the magazine photo that attracted my attention was of a non-traditional Brussels Sprouts Pizza Carbonara by Chef Ina Garten. Instead of red sauce, it features a white Bechamel sauce, ricotta cheese, Italian pancetta and thinly-sliced Brussels sprouts. Here’s the recipe. It’s one I’m going to have to try.

Oysters . . . and other Adriatic adventures

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I had never developed an appreciation for raw oysters; nor for oyster stew or oyster stuffing at Thanksgiving, for that matter.

I have been known to order Oysters Rockefeller because that seems a “classy” choice at an upscale restaurant, on the same culinary level as escargot or whole artichokes. I love showy foods, and I admit that I enjoy demonstrating that I know how to deal with such dishes. I have, on occasion, skewered a salty, smoked oyster for a cracker.

But as for raw oysters. No, thank you. I do not love oysters.

My husband, on the other hand, enjoys oysters any way they’re served, but preferably right in the shell, cold, salty and fresh from the sea.

It was a preference he worked hard to cultivate, ordering oysters on the half shell several times in his early 20s. He initially discovered that the slippery oysters didn’t slide so easily down his throat, no matter how much he tried to disguise them with cocktail sauce and and Tabasco. Those first few times, he admits, were less than pleasant experiences.

But he persevered. At a tiny cafe in Brittany, with a view of the oyster fields just out the window, he ordered an oyster. One fresh-from-the-Atlantic oyster. The lone half shell on ice, accompanied by lemon and course sea salt, was brought to the table with a flourish by an ever-so-proper French waiter. It prompted curious smiles from those seated at nearby tables.

The waiter stood by expectantly, awaiting a reaction.

I was there, cheering him on.

Other diners also waited, and nodded approval as he downed that first cool slippery oyster. It was a personal triumph. And it started a trend. He has since ordered oysters in Maine, in numerous Gulf Coast eateries, and in fine restaurants in cities across the globe. He does, you see, love oysters.

After many years, we returned to that same restaurant in Cancale, France. It had changed a bit over the years, but the oyster fields are still the same, and this time my husband ordered a half dozen and enjoyed every one. In fact, he considered ordering another half dozen.

Today, he rarely passes on the opportunity to order oysters on the half shell when we’re near an ocean that allows them to be delivered fresh and cold from their habitat. He still asks for extra horseradish and hot sauce.

I resisted for the longest time, until we visited the Adriatic three years ago. Sitting on the open deck of a vessel anchored only feet from the oyster beds, I was prepared to enjoy the local fare along with the white wine promised as part of a half-day excursion from Dubrovnik, Croatia.

I had planned to say no to the oysters. But I was curiously enthralled as I watched the servers expertly open the shells and plate up the briny treats. Before I took much time to think about it, I was repeating “I can do this” to myself. I accepted my plate with a bit of trepidation, but I knew my mate would help me out if I couldn’t finish my share.

I sprinkled the smallest oyster with lemon juice, added just a drop of Tabasco, and closed my eyes. My first sensation was memorable. I sensed the cold, and tasted the sea. Then I swallowed. It was a whole new reality.

I actually liked the sensation. I was pleasantly surprised by the silky texture, the intense fresh flavor, and the saltiness. I felt close to the sea and its bounty in profound ways.

It was a lesson. It was delicious. It was unforgettable. Not only was it an eye-opening confirmation of the bounties of the sea, but it was the beginning of a love affair with Croatia. The time we spent there was all too short. Last November we returned to see more of the country.

I did not sample any more oysters, but I did partake, willingly, of other Croatian treats! The food is special, as are the people. To say we loved our two short visits to Croatia is an understatement. I still have no great love for oysters, but Croatia captured our hearts. This Thanksgiving I cannot help but think again of those trips.

I am thankful that we took those trips when we did. When the world is once again healed, we will return. I look forward to it.

And I am sure there will be more stories to tell.

Great Portugal Excursions: Tour a Cork Forest

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Even though five generations of his family have held title to the land that claimed Phillip Mellon’s heart, his own journey to living on that land was circuitous. The attachment, though, is obvious and strong.

On a two-and-a-half-hour classic Jeep safari of the 540-hectare (more than 1,300 acres) Portuguese farm that he occupies with his wife and two young boys, he recounted the story of how his passionate love for the land unfolded. He admits that he is the first of his family to actually live on and work the land. His forebears, he explains, were “gentleman farmers” who held the property as a sort of vacation retreat from life in the city and other professional pursuits, hiring caretakers to tend the cork oaks, supervise the harvest and care for grazing animals.

Learning from the Land

During the tour, Mellon tells of the farm’s history, how it was that he found his way home, literally, to build a new life on his land, and of his hopes for the future. It’s a fascinating story of adaptive land use, and a continuing effort to build reality from a dream.

Phillip Mellon is a totally modern man, with deep Portuguese roots and ties to the culture. He was reared in the city, near Lisbon and the sea, but he says his happiest times were the school vacations and summers he spent at the farm in the country’s Alentejo region.

Mellon’s father, an attorney, still lives in the city, as do his siblings. Phillip himself had no early intentions of becoming a farmer. He was educated in England, then lived and worked both in Australia and Canada before finally returning to Portugal to settle on the family land. Noting that he really knew little about farming at the time, he has seized on opportunities as they presented themselves, learning by doing, and not averse to trying out new ventures.

In the year 2000, he embraced the idea of planting grapevines; today the vineyards produce award-winning wines. He says, laughingly, that he is a bit undisciplined in his pursuits.

Cork: A Major Industry

Driving east from Lisbon, we did not at first know what to expect. The scenery is dramatically beautiful, pastoral and calm, with scattered small towns punctuating the green hills. Large trees became more common, but we did not immediately recognize them as cork oaks, until we spotted large stacks of bark drying in the sun.

Luckily, our rental car had a superb navigational system; we were to meet our guide “in front of the museum in Redondo.” After only a few wrong turns and some good-natured advice from local residents, we arrived right on time, met Jose Inverno and our tour-mates, and were escorted to the farm for a sip of strong espresso in the sunny courtyard of the main farmhouse.

The surrounding forests in the Alentejo region and further south in Algarve province have been producing Portugal’s noted cork for centuries. The story of cork is a fascinating one. Portugal is the world’s major supplier, now accounting for approximately one half of the annual global harvest. A tree must be at least 20 years old, often much older, before it can first be harvested. It is said that the best bottle corks come from trees at least 50 years old. Then, by law, the bark of a cork oak may be stripped only every nine years. At this farm, Herdade da Maroteira, the rotation is once every 11 years. It is not a pursuit for the impatient!

Today, Mellon not only supervises the annual cork harvest, but is also planting new grape varietals. The farm offers informational walking treks and motorized tours through a subsidiary company managed by Jose Inverno, and has recently ventured into agri-tourism, with simple, but charming, accommodations available by the night or for an extended stay.

In addition, there are olive trees that produce oil for the farm and some limited sales, as well as beehives to supply fragrant honey. Sheep and cattle graze on the land, and Mellon partners with an Iberian black ham producer, allowing the distinctive long-legged pigs to fatten, during season, on the nutritious acorns that fall from the abundant oak trees.

The pigs, however, had not yet arrived on the land; the sheep seemed shy, but the cattle were unfazed by our presence. Farm dogs accompanied us everywhere.

An Individualized Tour Opportunity

Our Jeep safari followed dirt paths winding through the oaks, past fields of lavender, yellow and white wildflowers, adjacent to vineyards planted with a variety of grapevines, and across the hillocks of the foothills of the Serra D’Ossa range. At the highest point, we breathed in the spectacle, as Mellon pointed out the boundaries of his working estate down below.

We passed other groups of trekkers, each one accompanied by a congenial guide, and Jose also escorted a second driving tour in his car. We made frequent stops to listen to Mellon’s dialog, and the photo ops were superb!

The area invites exploration, from the evidence of ancient settlements to scattered ruins and well-preserved medieval walls and churches. The time passed all too quickly, and following a visit to the farm’s small shop, we returned to Redondo for a long, relaxing, traditional country lunch, included as part of our tour.

Sunday Dinner Far From Home

It was a Sunday and Restaurante Serra d’Ossa was filled with locals, all genial and smiling as they were greeted by Mellon. They, in turn, greeted us warmly, and we felt at home. The proprietors took care of us as if we were family, and the bountiful food and wine was brought to our table family style. We had a wonderful time getting to know our fellow “trekkers” better, and the food itself was delectable.

The menu included a variety of interesting appetizers served as traditional Portuguese “couvert,” followed by amazing tomato soup with poached eggs, and “green soup” for one of our group allergic to tomatoes. The entree was a mixed platter of pork prepared several different ways, and fresh salad, followed by a selection of tempting desserts, all of which disappeared quickly.

We assume that the cadence of life exists in this small town much as it always has, and we were delighted to be a part of it, if only for a day. Mellon told us that few of the other cork farmers have an interest in opening their forests to visitors or in diversifying into other enterprises. So, for the time being at least, Herdade da Maroteira offers a unique experience for travelers to Portugal. It is one that we will long remember, and one we highly recommend.

Because we were there in late April, we missed the harvest, which typically occurs in late June or early July, but we can visualize the buzz of activity it must generate at the farm.

Other available treks and tours take visitors to explore the ancient “dolmens,” burial mounds in the surrounding hills, on leisurely countryside walks and birding tours, and to visit the museum and ancient buildings of Redondo.

Perhaps one day we’ll return to do it all.

*Note: Some Portuguese cork factories also welcome tourists, but we chose to forgo the opportunity because of time constraints and distance. We left Alentejo headed south to the Algarve for a week near the sea. In future posts, I’ll chronicle other wonderful excursions for Portugal travelers.