Hidden in the trees of Moncus Park in Lafayette, Louisiana, is a faded red treehouse constructed with lumber salvaged from a former horse barn on the property. It adjoins a children’s play area, but it’s almost hidden from view along the

paved walking path that meanders through the property. I’m sure that makes it all the more enticing for the children who choose to climb the ladder and walk the swinging elevated course to reach it.

On the day we visited, the park was filled with people. Some, like our group of travel writers from diverse locations, had first visited the thriving adjacent outdoor Saturday Market, overflowing with food and crafts vendors every week throughout the year. This past summer, the market celebrated its 10th anniversary with the ringing of the Durel Bell.

The sun shown brightly on this mid-October day, and the park was alive with activities to attract young and old alike.

Some, accompanied by leashed dogs, were out for serious exercise in the beautiful surroundings while others simply enjoyed the various trees and plants on the rolling hills of a well-planned natural enclave that was once a horse farm. The park, operated now by a non-profit organization, was designed and built “by the community, for the community,” according to Kaylie LeBlanc, assistant vice president for communications of Lafayette Travel. One of the unique features is a 63-foot high hill, the highest point in Lafayette Parish! Development was begun in 2018, fueled by an initial $6 million grant. Now, a membership program funds ongoing park development and programming.

Also on the grounds is a striking Veterans Memorial that pays tribute to local residents who served their country in the various military forces throughout history. Memorial bricks line the path leading to the serene site with its polished granite plaques describing each war that U.S. troops have fought. It’s worth stopping to read each somber account, from a young country’s battle for independence to “Indian Wars — Circa 1600-1924” and the Global War on Terror — 2002-2021.

Moncus Park is one good reason to visit Lafayette, a city known as the “happiest city in America,” at the heart of Louisiana’s Cajun and Creole country. But there are many more.

I was in Lafayette for three days of whirlwind activity during this year’s Festival Acadiens et Creoles, a celebration of food, art, music, history and distinctive culture. What a celebration it was! Lafayette boasts great food and lively music, to be sure, but learning the history of a people who left their homeland and resettled in faraway places was what I found intriguing, somewhat disturbing, and totally fascinating. I had not previously known that Cajun and Creole were and are so intertwined.

The Acadians who came to Louisiana from France by way of the Canadian Maritimes (primarily Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island) have retained a distinctive cultural identity that is remarkable and celebratory. Eventually, Acadian morphed into Cajun and Acadian/Creole/Cajun culture is the result. Although we did not visit it, the Acadian Cultural Center in Lafayette is one of six locations of Louisiana’s Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve. Admission is free, and the center is open Tuesday through Saturday year-round, except on national holidays.

An Ongoing Celebration

Lafayette is known for its festivals throughout the year, and this one certainly did not disappoint. What’s not to love about live bands that encourage complete strangers to “dance to the music” together? Add the enticing flavors of gumbo, jambalaya, etouffee and boudin sausage served fresh and hot from food trucks in the park, or the refreshing abundance of cold beer, spicy bloody Marys, flavored daiquiris, and other refreshments close at hand.

Girard Park in Lafayette takes on a carnival atmosphere that’s equally appealing for young and old alike, with food treats from beignets to soft ice cream, loaded hot dogs to boiled crawfish, fried gator bites and chicken wings to cheese-smothered grilled oysters! There is face-painting and bubble-blowing for the children, crafting demonstrations to watch and souvenirs to buy.

The performance stage is at the center of the activity, and many festival goers bring camp chairs or blankets. Picnic tables and benches are scattered about the park, and various tents offer seating for food and cooking demonstrations, musical lectures, and cultural programs.

From the ceremony of “cutting the boudin” to open the festival to the closing strains of music performed by an all-woman band as darkness fell on the festival’s last day, it was a great experience.

Traditionally held on the first full weekend in October, this celebration has been a Lafayette highlight since 1974. With a focus on the local sounds of Cajun and Zydeco music and local food specialties, the festival atmosphere extends not only throughout the park, but throughout the city. During festival weekend, shops are open late, visitors stroll the compact downtown area, marvel at the street art and local murals, enjoy crafts shows and outdoor exhibits, attend wine tastings and local business open houses, and snap souvenir photos at the Lafayette sign in a local park or selfies at the picturesque downtown arches.

Smiles and high spirits dominate the scene. It is truly a celebration that encourages active participation.

Beyond the Festival

The Festival Acadiens et Creoles is not, however, the largest celebration on Lafayette’s calendar. Held in April, the Festival International de Louisiane spills over into nearby cities and parishes and attracts visitors from throughout the world for the distinctly French-flavored celebration.

Lafayette also celebrates New Year’s Eve in a big way, and goes all out for Mardi Gras. Visit Lafayettetravel.com for up-to-date information on what’s happening when in this “happiest town” so you won’t miss out on any of the events that interest you. I don’t want to leave the impression, however, that visiting Lafayette, is simply one big party. As much fun as it can be, there is also a serious side to Lafayette’s personality

Cultural unity is pervasive and community spirit is inclusive. Informal, spontaneous musical jam sessions seem to be the norm and, more often than not, members of the public are invited to attend, join in, or sing along. Roots run deep here and pride of place and heritage is evident among young and old alike. Lafayette residents are intent on preserving their traditions. A conversation with a local resident can be equal parts history lesson and hope for the future, interspersed with family stories.

The Beginnings

Originally founded as Vermilionville in the 1820’s, the city was renamed Lafayette in 1884. Its population in 2023 is reported to be slightly more than 121,000, a slight decline from 2020 when it was just under 122,000. But the population of metropolitan Lafayette Parish exceeds 376,000.

We visited the historical re-creation of Vermilionville, now a living history museum that takes visitors back to the early settlement. Signs along the paths chronicle how Acadian and Creole settlers interacted with native peoples and those of African descent through the late 1800s, and the buildings display a wealth of artifacts. It’s much better than a museum depiction. Walking along the paths offers a uniquely personalized insight into how lives were lived during those times.

Visit Vermilionville.com for information about events, programs and performances, including a 2nd Saturday French Table, a free gathering that allows visitors to “hear, speak and practice” the unique Acadian language. Other programs offer insight into the lifestyle and traditions of early Acadian settlers who sought to preserve their French-speaking culture on the American frontier.

Among the buildings and various dwellings situated at the site are a schoolhouse, church, parsonage, carriage house and other utility buildings, as well as early “shotgun” houses and a wide variety of home styles that were popular through the decades. Traditional crops are still cultivated, and the historical village even has a resident donkey, a couple of sheep, and a working iron forge. This historical village offers a perfect opportunity to explore the history of Cajun culture and it’s impossible to leave without a profound respect for the early Acadian lifestyle, the Native American, Creole, and African influences, and Cajun traditions. We even learned some often-used words in Cajun French!

Our young guide, herself a proud Cajun, was clothed in traditional dress of the time, and she spoke with candor about growing up in this distinctive culture. I was awed as she sat down at a spinning wheel to demonstrate how yarn is spun from raw cotton, but then she apologized for not being very adept at spinning! We also were treated to an explanation of traditional, hand-sewn quilting skills by an older woman intent on preserving the skills that her ancestors possessed. We were duly impressed by the number, the quality and the variety of the quilts she has completed.

Building on Tradition

Our group was treated to a bountiful lunch at La Cuisine de Maman, where we feasted on traditional favorites prepared and served in a circa-1800 home at the site. Suffice it to say that no one left hungry!

Before leaving Vermilionville, we stopped in at the Saturday music jam, held in a performance hall just across the courtyard from the restaurant. That became a fond memory of my short time in Lafayette, one that I will savor for a long time to come. That strangers come together to make music is impressive enough; that the music is well-played, sung with gusto, performed with no rehearsals and at no charge to the public, and enjoyed by all is truly special!

Yet to come is my account of an eye-opening and thrilling flat-bottomed boat trip through the Atchafalaya Swamp, along with a visit to nearby Avery Island with its jungle gardens and Tabasco factory, as well as more pictures and commentary about the people, the food and drink, the sights and the music scene in this distinctive Louisiana city. I’ll leave you with at least five good reasons to add Lafayette to your own travel plans for the coming year!