Month: July 2023

A Taste of Uruguay

~ adriennecohen221 ~ 2 Comments

Uruguay was not on my list of must-visit destinations. In truth, I had not given more than a passing thought to a scheduled port call in Montevideo. The cruise was a South American adventure that included a visit to the Antarctic Peninsula, and it had been in the planning states for three years, since before COVID. I had had plenty of time to research Chile and Argentina — Santiago and Buenos Aires were the beginning and endpoints of the cruise, and my spouse and I planned to spend a few days in each city, in addition to the 16 days we were scheduled to be aboard the Sapphire Princess.

  • KODAK Digital Still Camera
  • KODAK Digital Still Camera

But Montevideo had not been in our sights during the planning stages. Actually, I must confess that we had to look up the proper pronunciations of both the country’s name and the city! We knew virtually nothing about Uruguay, and our time in Montevideo would be limited. Although it was tempting to simply spend our shore time at a nearby beach, we booked a half-day excursion for a wine-tasting event at a well-known Bodega not far from the city. That allowed us a couple of hours to explore the city, as well as a glimpse of the nearby countryside.

Our only regret is that we didn’t have ample time to enjoy dinner at Bodega Bouza as well. The winery occupies idyllic grounds only about a 25-minute drive from the heart of the city. We were enthralled by the mix of historic buildings, manicured lawn, healthy vineyards, and resident geese, peacocks, and cats. In addition, there is an old rail car, vintage farm equipment, lush landscaping, and several outbuildings, including an impressive modern dining hall.

Our tour of the vineyard was interesting, and a subsequent visit to the state-of-the-art processing, aging and bottling facility, including a visit to the climate-controlled cellar, was informative and worthwhile.

Bodega Bouza, situated in the northwest section of Montevideo, is surrounded by the five-hectare Melilla Vineyard, and was established by Juan and Elisa Bouza between 1999 and 2001 as a family-owned enterprise. The casual, light-filled tasting room — Bouza Vinos Garage — offers tables and chairs surrounded by the family’s collection of classic vehicles. There are work vehicles, classic motorbikes, and antique automobiles, in addition to highly unusual commercial machinery and delivery wagons. Vintage automotive buffs might enjoy the cars as much as the wine!

Tables in the garage are elegantly set with glasses for sampling one white wine and three red wines. The tasting itself was perfectly choreographed, with an introduction to each variety of wine offered, and tapas were chosen to enhance the flavor of each wine. We were served miniature beef empanadas to accompany the full-bodied specialty red that Bouza is known for. It was a treat to enjoy our wine tasting in such a setting.

We were intrigued by this opportunity to sample wine produced from the Tannat grape, and pleasantly surprised by how much we liked this deep garnet, somewhat “heavy” red wine. Sometimes known as Uruguay’s national grape, most experts believe it originated in the Basque region of France. It was brought to Ecuador in 1870 by a Basque immigrant, and the vines flourished there. Today, this grape accounts for approximately one-third of total Uruguayan wine production. It is often blended with other grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, Pinot Noir, and others to produce lighter, less intense sipping wines.

Some people find the full-bodied, dry red too acidic for their taste. However, it has attracted new fans who appreciate its earthy flavor, complex fruitiness, and distinctive dark appearance. Interestingly, Tannat grapes have five seeds, compared with only two or three found in other red wine grapes. The additional seeds, when crushed, boost the concentration of antioxidants in the resulting wine. Ongoing research confirms that Tannat wines have significantly higher antioxident properties than other reds. So, If you need excuse to try it, this just might be it!

We needed no excuse to savor this distinctive, dry, dark, fruity wine. We found it to be smooth and exceptionally enjoyable, not that the other varieties we were served weren’t equally delightful! We were offered one white and three reds, each distinctive and served with complimentary small bites. During the course of our tour and tasting, we had an opportunity to meet and talk with participants from Uruguay and from neighboring Argentina and Brazil. As the lone Americans, that proved to be a cultural highlight. So much so that, because we had some time to spare, we shared a bottle of Bouza’s Tannat with another couple, confident that we had a driver who could get us back to our ship on time!

The historic winery that is the heart of Bodega Bouza was built in 1942 by Numa Pesquera. The winery has now been expanded to include a total of five separate vineyards. Tannat and Merlot grapes are grown at all locations, and Bouza has become renowned for its Tannat wines. Because of the family’s Spanish heritage, they were the first to introduce Albarino grapes to Uruguay and today they also produce Tempranillo wines. In addition, they produce Merlot and Pinot Noir. Bouza Whites include Albarino, Chardonnay, Semillon, and Riesling.

The other Bouza vineyards are located in Las Violetas, Canelones (the first acquired by the family), and in Maldonado, where their Paz de Azucar and Las Espinas vineyards are located. More recently, Bouza acquired the Canelon Chico vineyard in Canelones, once owned by their winemaker, Eduardo Boido.

We had a wonderful time at Bodega Bouza, and highly recommend this excursion if you find yourself in Montevideo, Uruguay. We would not hesitate to return, but would try to schedule time to include a meal there next time.

Now we are on a quest to find Tannit wine at home here in Arkansas. Hopefully, it will be Bouza!

Food — the primary reason to cruise?

~ adriennecohen221 ~ 1 Comment

Okay, so taking a cruise isn’t all about the food — sunsets, entertainment, and destinations play a large part in the selection of itineraries. Luxury service, creature comforts, pools and hot tubs, spa treatments, and a variety of tantalizing activities appeal to young and old alike, But unlimited drink packages and specialty dining venues clinch the deal for a growing legion of cruise-ship passengers each season. Major cruise lines are quick to recognize that they must cater to the diverse needs and preferences of both veteran cruisers and first-timers, so options vary considerably from one line to another. They also may be quite different from the choices that existed just a few years ago.

Recent passenger statistics point to a cruising resurgence. Numbers are back to pre-pandemic levels, and passenger volume for 2023 is expected to reach 106% of the 2019 level, to a total of 31.5 million passengers, according to Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), and some ships now report sailing routinely at 100% capacity. Passenger totals dropped to less than five million in 2021 at the height of the pandemic, but 2024 numbers are projected to reach 36 million! That’s good for the cruise lines, and for the economy, but it means that travelers must make their plans earlier, particularly if they’re seeking bargain fares and any offered perks.

If you step back in time, transatlantic voyages were a means of getting from one continent to another, albeit in luxurious fashion. Today, a cruise is about a great deal more than getting somewhere. Trans-ocean itineraries now whisk cruise passengers in high style not only to and from Europe and America but from the West Coast to the Orient, from Asia to Africa, or to circle the globe on itineraries that stretch across months and seasons. The onboard experience is all-important.

One can traverse the Panama Canal as well as the Suez, cross the equator or the International date line, or drift lazily along the rivers in a score of different countries, sometimes even captaining your own vessel. Expedition cruises that package sightseeing with high-adventure experiences are growing in popularity.

It all makes me a little envious — how about you?

What about the food?

Yes, there certainly have been changes — but, for the most part, the elegance of cruise ship menu choices and the excellence of the food offerings remain! Even though midnight dessert buffets have almost universally disappeared, there is no shortage of food options on contemporary cruise ships. And lavish buffets offer a visual treat as well as wonderful food. Most offer the availability of food and drink from early morning to late at night — sometimes on a 24-hour basis!

Choose to take all your meals in your ship’s main dining rooms, or opt instead for lavish upper-deck buffets, specialty restaurants, or room service. For the most part, traditional dinner “seatings” are no longer specified. It’s all about choice, and the choices are extensive. Ships are getting larger, and on larger ships, passengers may not even have time to sample all the options! Early reports are that a new Royal Caribbean ship expected to debut in 2024 will feature at least 40 different dining venues.

Personalize your cruising experience

Last fall, on a brief round-trip sailing from Los Angeles to San Diego and Baja California aboard Discovery Princess, we enjoyed an abundance of tasty treats — from made-to-order hand-tossed pizza at Gigi’s Pizzeria at the heart of the ship’s three-level piazza, to loaded hot dogs and fries from the Salty Dog Grill adjacent to Deck 16’s pools. We even ordered a selection of street tacos via room service to consume on our private balcony!

We did not make it to the Salty Dog Gastropub that features gourmet burgers on Deck 5, but we met friends and enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails at Good Spirits at Sea, a lively bar and favorite gathering spot just across the Piazza. The International Cafe is just next door, and it was hard to resist sampling a sandwich with a cocktail. It became even more difficult to refuse a pastry treat with a mid-morning latte or a late-night espresso. As is our tradition aboard ship, we were awakened each morning — at a time of our choosing — by a knock on our stateroom door signaling the arrival of a pot of coffee, sometimes accompanied by a selection of croissants and pastries! Isn’t that the height of personal pampering? On Princess Line ships, it’s just one of the complimentary amenities.

While we chose to enjoy a leisurely dinner in one of the ship’s superb dining rooms most evenings, after a busy day of sightseeing in San Diego, we opted for lighter fare when we returned so we could watch our sailaway from the upper deck. Another evening, we indulged in a multi-course dinner at the Crown Grill before moving on for evening entertainment at the nearby Princess Live! lounge. With all the different options available, we did not want for food at any time of day!

What to expect on your cruise vacation?

The dizzying number of options means that you must do some initial homework even before you shop for a ship. The increased popularity of river cruising adds another dimension. Today, you can opt for a laid-back, relatively casual three-day excursion out of Florida to a Caribbean island, a week-long cruise in the Mediterranean or a cruise that circles Australia, Japan, or the Hawaiian Islands. Alternatively, you can explore Alaska, Antarctica, the South Sea Islands, or the great rivers of Europe and the Americas, including the Nile, the Amazon, or the Mississippi. Combine a pre-or-post cruise land tour, and your choices are multiplied.

Choosing to cruise typically means that you pay for your vacation in advance, often including the port excursions that interest you. You unpack when you arrive at your port of embarkation with no need to pack up again for the duration of the cruise, be it seven days, three weeks, or more. Still, cruising is not for everybody. If you haven’t cruised before, it’s wise to dip your toes in the water, so to speak, on a three or four-day sailing combined with a visit to the port or a nearby beach. Also, be sure to investigate thoroughly the options and packages available from the various international cruise lines.

Not only have itineraries and destinations changed over the decades but so have cruising traditions. Where, in the past, formal attire — even ball gowns and tuxedos on occasion — were proper for dinner — the emphasis today is on informal. Some lines recommend “country club casual” with slightly upscale dress expected in the evening, and many ships still specify a formal night or theme party as part of each itinerary, usually with advance notice. Most travelers, however, don’t even pack multiple bags; sometimes a carry-on and a backpack will suffice, even for a week or longer, with laundry services available to passengers.

If you choose to join the millions of people who plan to cruise in 2023 and 2024, whether you cruise as a solo passenger, as a couple, or as part of a larger group of family or friends, Bon Voyage! Enjoy both sea days and port visits to the fullest, and don’t forget to take plenty of pictures! Most of all, savor the food!